From Milan to Paris, LVMH Maisons reinvent the men’s wardrobe for Fashion Week.
LVMH Fashion & Leather Goods Houses – Fendi, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Loewe, Kenzo and Céline – present their vision of men’s fashion during Spring/Summer 2023 Fashion Week shows in Milan and Paris.
Fendi Men Spring/Summer 2023
For the new collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of the Italian house, imagined a play of contrasts between decoration and simplicity. The summer wardrobe evokes journeys to destinations both near and far, with a playful color palette reflecting earth, sea and sky, ranging from melon and indigo to ocher and silver gray. Accessories include moccasins with fringed denim and suede, as well as visors. The new Fendi Roma bucket bag in toile and leather features a wrap-around Fendi logo, while the iconic Peekaboo bag is reinvented in denim, with an integrated water bottle holder. It is joined by the first Peekaboo ISeeU Petit bag for men, in textured cowhide or with a beaded daisy chain strap. Exploring style at the fulcrum between nostalgia and innovation, the collection proposes a fresh source of inspiration to rethink the men’s wardrobe.
Givenchy Men Spring/Summer 2023
For Spring Summer 2023, Matthew M. Williams identifies the archetypical garments and accessories that make up an authentic wardrobe, and amplifies them through the artisanal and technological possibilities of Parisian craftsmanship.
For his first Men’s Ready-to-Wear show for Givenchy, presented at the Ecole Militaire in Paris, Creative Director Mathew M. Williams investigates the societal uniforms of his native America to create a contemporary wardrobe, applying the savoir-faire of the Paris ateliers. A new sharply tailored silhouette emerges with black and grey coats and shell jackets crafted in ultralight leather. A military surplus sensibility infuses pieces with jackets, tactical vests and cargo pants in digitally-printed camouflage motifs on waterproof fabric. The play of fabrics also includes pieces made from a patchwork of upcycled leather offcuts laminated for a super luxe look. With this collection Mathew M. Williams creates contemporary wear through the lens of refined Givenchy elegance.
Dior men’s Summer 2023: nature meets couture
Unveiled in a garden set referencing both Monsieur Dior and the painter Duncan Grant, Dior men’s Summer 2023 show by Kim Jones represents a subtly-colored tribute to art, rethought tradition and the great outdoors.
In a sense of reinvented continuity, Dior’s tailoring is taken in enticing new directions, the artworks of Duncan Grant illuminate men’s clothing in both understated and arresting motifs, and the eternal Cannage crops up from 3D-printed sneakers to hybrid headwear. Among the House friends turning out to discover the new collection by Kim Jones were Justin Timberlake, David (and Cruz) Beckham, J Balvin, (Dior Japan ambassador) Ryusei Yokohama, Chase Hudson, Matty Healy and Arthur Chen (Dior brand ambassador for China).
Gardening, hiking, fishing: whether formal or informal, the looks of the Dior Summer 2023 men’s collection combine elegance and levity in the spirit of sportswear to celebrate nature. The colors – from Dior grays to pinks and pastel shades from greens to blues, bring nature’s luminous, lush gradients to life. Bold tailoring is reinvented through delicate shorts and Bermudas, or completed with a detachable tonal lapel revisiting iconic suit sleeves.
Strange Math: Louis Vuitton Men’s collection Spring-Summer 2023 is set on pure imagination, which is at the heart of the luxury Maison’s ethos.
Louis Vuitton Men’s collection Spring-Summer 2023 explores the relationship between imagination and reality and brings together creative minds into the ecosystem that welcomed Virgil Abloh back in 2018, and that strives for creatorship, craftsmanship and showmanship. For this new collection, a magnified playground, made of children’s toys, has been turned into a runway, in the Carré du Louvre. A huge racetrack defines an evolutionary path and puts forth an allegory of transition, from naive to refined. We discover silhouettes drawn from swoopy lines, which play with shrunken and oversized dimensions, founded on the idea of a wardrobe grown-into or outgrown. French romanticism fills the collection, with flower fields through impressionist paintings, transformed into tapestries and prints. Children’s building blocks and playdough elements adorn garments and accessories, while toolbox components, such as scissors, tweezers, and clamps, embellish garments as three-dimensional embroidered pendants. The motifs celebrate the expert ateliers of the Maison and serve as symbols of the painstaking savoir-faire of the artists. Many accessories, bags, and shoes complete the collection and redefine the Upcycling Ideology, while keeping a playful stance.
LOEWE Men’s runway collection is a fusion of the organic and the fabricated.
Shapes are reduced to their archetypal crudeness, standardised and then inflated, shrunken, sliced or left as they are. Nature and technology meet within a glaringly white environment. Made in padded nappa, or ozone-treated cotton makes the garments look as though they’ve been buried underground. The perfect and the worn out. Tech relics—earphones, a pen drive, a phone case—cluster on the leather coat. Plants grow on coats, sweatshirts, sweatpants and running shoes in a process perfected in collaboration with designer Paula Ulargui Escalona. The idea is that over time the pieces merge with nature. The juxtaposition and integration of the natural and the fabricated continues in the setup of the show. The space is glaringly white. Guests follow a natural flow to reach their respective seats, an organic experience from beginning to end.