Exuberant ceramic art x menswear fashion: Brian Rochefort for Berluti

 

 

The traditional idea of fashion week and fashion shows got canceled. Kris Van Assche says it is a once in lifetime occasion to actually give people the background of a new collection.

Brian Rochefort x Berluti; @berluti

Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2021 went all-digital in the Covid-19 context. LVMH fashion houses like Berluti rethought the presentations of their ready-to-wear collections as runway events were replaced by novel online shows and special films.

Inspired by volcanoes and exotic plants, the exuberant signature of ceramic artist Brian Rochefort blends intuitively with the augmented natural texture and colour language exercised at Berluti luxury fashion Maison.

This season, Berluti’s Artistic Director Kris Van Assche adapts to the challenges of our moment in time in a long-distance collaboration with the ceramic artist and sculptor Brian Rochefort, the first creative collaboration on ready-to-wear for Berluti. This new collection whets the curiosity of Berluti aficionados as Kris Van Assche takes a familiar aesthetic and transports it with a new proposal, taking sartorial creations into unexplored territory.

The collection of garments and accessories will be fully unveiled and launched in stores in January 2021.

Berluti approaches the concept of collaborations from a supplementary and illuminating perspective. When, in 2019, Kris Van Assche partnered with the furniture house Pierre Jeanneret, the collaboration illustrated aspects of craft and colour shared by the two parties. For the evolving clientele of Berluti, the approach manifests in curiosity by association: a new proposal within an aesthetic to which the client already relates. In his collaboration with Brian Rochefort, Kris Van Assche builds on the character of Berluti in a gesture of connectivity and communication key to the time in which we find ourselves.

“Right now, collaboration feels like a meaningful way to create something new. As something of a ceramics nerd, I have admired Brian Rochefort’s expression for a long time, and am fortunate enough to own one of his works. I couldn’t be more excited to interpret his vision through the lens of Berluti,” comments Kris Van Assche. Creative Director of Berluti.

The behind-the-scenes of the collaboration was previewed in a video between the two collaborators, screened online as part of Digital Paris Fashion Week on 9 July 2020. The film can be accessed on YouTube.com/Berluti.

Brian Rochefort x Berluti; @berluti
Berluti Canvas; @berluti

For 2020, Berluti also presented Signature – The maison’s first patterned canvas created by Kris Van Assche.

Inspired by the archives, the Signature Canvas blends the new Berluti logo, taken from the shoe tree of the very first pair of shoes made by Alessandro Berluti, and the undulating strokes of the iconic scritto motif, a tribute to the art of calligraphy created by Olga Berluti.

The Signature pattern is engraved on a black textured fabric that resists everyday use and is completed with Berluti’s trademark finishings – including leather details embellished with bootmaker studs that bring a metallic sparkle to each piece.

This new collection offers a variety of briefcases, cross-body bags, clutches, totes, backpacks, travel bags, and a sailor bag – all featuring the new emblematic of the Maison.

Brian Rochefort x Berluti; @berluti
Brian Rochefort x Berluti; @berluti

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Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2020-2021 fashion show at Louvre; @Louis Vuitton youtube

 


Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Louis Vuitton spurns coronavirus fears with dramatic closing show at Louvre” was written by Jess Cartner-Morley, for theguardian.com on Wednesday 4th March 2020 10.33 UTC

The Louvre is currently closed to visitors due to staff concerns about coronavirus, but the Louis Vuitton show must go on. The museum reopened its doors on Tuesday evening for the world’s most valuable luxury brand to close Paris fashion week, with a catwalk show staged in the inner courtyard of the museum.

The last fashion show of a month in which the disruption of cancelled shows and the chilling images of designer face masks have been a circus hall of mirrors held up to an anxiety-ridden zeitgeist was, appropriately, a climactic costume drama.

A 200-person choir in period dress spanning 500 years was the backdrop for what designer Nicolas Ghesquière called a “collision of times”. A 17th-century Cavalier in curls and feathered hat sat next to a flapper in lacquered bob and strings of pearls; there was a 1950s housewife, and an Edwardian gentleman with watch fob and waistcoat. The choir’s wardrobe was the work of Milena Canonero, a costume design collaborator of Stanley Kubrick, whose films have spanned three centuries from the 18th-century setting of Barry Lyndon to 2001: A Space Odyssey and the dystopian future of A Clockwork Orange.

“I wanted a group of characters that represent different countries, different cultures, different times,” Ghesquière told Vogue. “I love this interaction between the people seated in the audience, the girls walking, and the past looking at them – these three visions mixed together.”

A model at the Louis Vuitton show in the Louvre on 3 March. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière called the collection a “collision of times”.
A model at the Louis Vuitton show in the Louvre on 3 March. The designer Nicolas Ghesquière called the collection a ‘collision of times’. Photograph: Pixelformula/Sipa/Rex/Shutterstock

Juxtapositions of fashion history are a signature of Ghesquière, whose catwalks have blended sci-fi with baroque, and the belle époque with the 1970s.

This collection mashed Toulouse-Lautrec petticoats with motocross jackets, and garish sportswear graphics with dandy tailoring. For the all-important accessories, Ghesquière travelled back in time to treasures in the Louis Vuitton archive. Classic luggage trunks and the logo-stamped Keepall holdall – which he called “a pure vintage piece that acquires a beautiful patina over time” – were scaled down in size and swung by shoulder straps.

The collection paired Toulouse-Lautrec petticoats with motocross jackets.
The collection paired Toulouse-Lautrec petticoats with motocross jackets. Photograph: Pixelformula/Sipa/Rex/Shutterstock

As well as being a showcase for Vuitton’s next collection and a finale for Paris fashion week, the event was a curtain-raiser for the upcoming Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum. About Time: Fashion and Duration, which will open with the annual fashion extravaganza of the Met Gala on 4 May, is sponsored by Louis Vuitton and co-chaired this year by Ghesquière alongside Anna Wintour, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Meryl Streep and Emma Stone.

Curator Andrew Bolton told a press conference this week: “In recent years, time has dominated discussions within the fashion community. These talks are centred around the accelerated production, circulation, and the consumption of fashion in the 21st century. So we thought it might be an opportune moment to explore the temporal character of fashion from a historical perspective.”

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