How scent can link both personal and cultural memory: Firmenich x Central Saint Martins reimagine the future of fine fragrance

  As the world changes, from climate issues to political and cultural unrest, so does the perfumery. How olfactive experiences connect people to better understand each other and their environments. Olfactive Design encourages us to think about the future of fine fragrance through new uses and application techniques. Firmenich, the world’s largest privately-owned fragrance and … Read more

Tod’s x Central Saint Martins MA Fashion

 

Tod’s Legacy; @Tod’s x @Central Saint Martins MA Fashion:

The new generation of creatives needs to be supported and promoted, especially now. 35 students from the MA  Fashion Course got the chance to reinvent Tod’s iconic pieces, guided by 26 expert mentors from the fashion industry.

Tod’s Legacy is an initiative which was launched on February 19th, during the opening of London Fashion Week with a digital project which was unveiled on a dedicated platform.

In the awareness that in such a complicated moment the new generation of creatives must be supported and promoted, Tod’s announced the collaboration, initiated last July as part of Tod’s Academy, with the prestigious Central Saint Martins – University of the Arts for a special project in which young creativity dialogues with Tod’s values ​​and expresses itself in total freedom.

Tod’s Academy is a laboratory of ideas based in the luxury brand’s headquarters in the Marche region of Italy. It is conceived as a place for doing and thinking, in which artisans accompany and support students, offering them ways and techniques to materialize ideas. Tod’s Academy is the expression of the highest culture of Made in Italy and the excellence of the luxury group’s shoemaking artisans and is designed with a view to generational continuity, mixed with the modern and personal point of view of each creative.

Thought by Diego Della Valle and coordinated by Fabio Piras, course director of Central St Martins MA Fashion Course, the project  was presented during the London Fashion Week, through a big digital exhibition.

The 2021 Tod’s Legacy project includes 35 young designers from all corners of the world, chosen directly by Central Saint Martins: a borderless selection which enriches the Tod’s universe with further facets; of new points of view, visions and values. Through this collaboration, with a view to social sustainability, each creative receives a scholarship, which means an effective support in both studies and professional development.

Tod’s Academy Students 2021; @academy.tods.com/legacy/students.html

Each student was asked to give his or her own interpretation of one or more Tod’s codes, focusing on the creative process that led to the final proposal. The objects of this study have been the icons as well as the techniques of the brand: D Bag, Gommino, T Timeless and the handmade craftsmanship. This proposal was read through very personal lenses:deconstructed, taken apart, patchworked, embroidered, made in sustainable materials or assigned to new functions. In this process of analysis, which was carried out with inventive means, each student has been supported by a mentor and sparring partner, by a fashion master, in order to evaluate choices and make suggestions

The roster of mentors involved in Tod’s Legacy includes some of the most prestigious international editors, journalists and designers: tastemakers such as Hamish Bowles and Gianluca Longo; editors in-chief such as Emanuele Farneti and Simone Marchetti; critics such as Sarah Mower, Alexander Fury and Angelo Flaccavento; stylists like Francesca Burns; designers such as Simone Rocha and Charles Jeffrey; talent scouts like Sara Maino.

The result is a personal interpretation of the very idea of legacy, meant as cultural and creative baggage. Starting from Tod’s own heritage to interpret it in innovative and spontaneous ways, this generation of creatives blends their own personal legacy – one of culture, studies and family – with the brand. Some of them will also have the opportunity to further enrich their knowledge through an internship at the Tod’s Academy.

“This is a beautiful project that supports students and at the same time brings unusual and innovative points of view to Tod’s. Thanks to all the mentors who have helped us and thanks to Central St. Martins and Fabio Piras for their valuable contribution” explained Diego Della Valle.

 

@academy.tods.com/legacy/students.html

 

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Imperial Splendours at the Forbidden City: Chaumet presents its patrimonial wealth

The art of jewellery since the 18th century: Chaumet presents an unique body of historic jewels, drawings and archives. Discover the one-of-a-kind selection of Chaumet High Jewellery pieces made for the Imperial Splendours exhibition at the Forbidden City in Beijing.

Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Chaumet’s patrimonial wealth in a retrospective-

During centuries, Chaumet creations have echoed the excellence of the decorative arts, to become a major reference in the history of taste, the Parisian spirit and a certain French art de vivre.

Set in the Palace Museum, Beijing (formerly known as the Forbidden City), Chaumet‘s Imperial Splendours exhibition spans the history of the luxury Maison from the end of the 18th century to the beginning of the 21st and illustrates the uninterrupted transmission of exceptional savoir-faire. Under the scientific direction of Henri Loyrette, the exhibition will run until July, 2nd and is built around Chaumet patrimonial wealth.

Some 300 works, jewels, paintings, drawings and objets d’art, illustrate Chaumet’s characteristic “art of jewellery”. Prestigious collections and prominent museums have come together to support the event, namely the Musée du Louvre, the Château de Fontainebleau and the Victoria and Albert Museum of London. Some of these pieces have left France or are on view to the public for the first time.

The king of jewels, diadems punctuate the exhibition from the beginning, till the final unveiling of the “Vertiges” diadem, born of the collaboration between Chaumet and Central Saint Martins.

On the occasion of this exhibition, two publications were edited: “Imperial Splendours. The art of jewellery since the 18th century” and “Chaumet. The art of jewellery since 1780″.

The major creations of the imperial and royal courts, from the Consulate to the Second Empire, are presented, as are the illustrious figures who commissioned them: Napoleon I, who chose the founder of Chaumet, Marie- Etienne Nitot, to magnify his symbols of power; the Empress Josephine, whose immense taste for jewellery is reflected in the ceremonial parures adorned with pearls and diamonds often sourced from the Crown Diamonds; and the Empress Marie-Louise, the instigator of neo-classical jewellery’s golden age. The reign of Napoleon III and Eugenie is a moment of glory for the Maison at the Expositions Universelles where its creativity shines on an international stage and opens the way for expansion.

one-of-a-kind selection of High Jewellery pieces made for Chaumet Imperial Splendours exhibition at the Forbidden City in Beijing L’Oiseau défendant son nid -Bird defending its nest bracelet by Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Chaumet’s patrimonial wealth in a retrospective- Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Chaumet’s patrimonial wealth in a retrospective Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Chaumet’s patrimonial wealth in a retrospective -The art of jewellery since the 18th century Emperor Napoleon I in coronation robe with Chaumet jewels Chaumet Necklace and earrings of the Grand Duchess Stephanie of Baden Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City exhibition 2017 Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Necklace belonging to the Duchesse de Trévise Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Empress Marie-Louise’s micro-mosaic parure for the day Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Chaumet’s patrimonial wealth in a retrospective-2017 Chaumet Imperial Splendours in the Forbidden City - Chaumet’s patrimonial wealth in a retrospective 2017 Chaumet - Empress Marie-Louise’s gothic belt

 

Chaumet and Central Saint Martins, UAL create the diadem of the 21st century

Futurist Chaumet “Vertiges” tiara, or how to reinterpret the French formal gardens with a touch of Parisian spirit.⠀

 Chaumet x Central Saint Martins, UAL: 8 innovative minds, 8 innovative projects, giving life to an idea.

Chaumet and Central Saint Martins, UAL create the diadem of the 21st century-the winner

Chaumet, the high-end jeweller based in Paris, gave carte blanche to the jewellery students of Central Saint Martins, UAL, to create the diadem of the 21st century. The school, internationally renowned for its illustrious alumni who, as artists and designers, have made their mark on the world, was an obvious choice for Chaumet. The other essential choice was that of the diadem as subject – the emblem of the luxury Maison that has fuelled boundless creativity since the days of the Empress Joséphine.

Chaumet is a jewellery and watchmaking designer founded in 1780 by Marie-Étienne Nitot. Fourteen artisans ply their trade in the workshop on Place Vendôme under the direction of foreman Pascal Bourdariat. As of 2012, it was owned by LVMH.

The competition gathered sixty students from two classes – the Bachelor of Arts in Jewellery and Master’s Degree in Jewellery Design – resulted in a finalist group of eight. The 21-year-old British student Scott Armstrong and his “Vertiges” diadem won the Chaumet contest.

Chaumet Vertiges Tiara 2017 Chaumet and Central Saint Martins, UAL create the diadem of the 21st century-

Over the decades, the House of Chaumet has designed hundreds of items of jewellery or original editions that have acquired heritage or historical status. From the 1970s, the house has been involved in an initiative to give its pieces their true worth in terms of aesthetic and historical value. This aim came to fruition with the creation of a museum in 1980 under the impetus of Béatrice de Plinval. The museum’s archives contain 200 items of jewellery, 19,800 original invoices, 80,000 drawings, 2,500 diadems and replicas of diadems in nickel silver – hundreds of which have been created since 1780. The museum is not open to the public but regularly organises events or exhibitions based on its collections.

With a desire to share, 12 Bis is the virtual extension of the Chaumet’s Musée Ephémère, once established at 12 Place Vendôme, and now accessible to everyone across borders. Chaumet’s heritage, a rich, abundant and inexhaustible source of inspiration, offers a thematic stroll through the old collections of drawings,models and photographs. An opportunity for dialogue between contemporary collections and historical creations, 12 Bis tells the story of the House, its culture and its style, including the history of these tiaras.

The Joséphine collection, launched in 2010, pays tribute to the empress, who was a devotee and collector of Chaumet jewels. This collection takes its inspiration from the diadem, tiara and aigrette, different headjewels worn by Joséphine.

 

Chaumet Vertiges Tiara 2017-21-year-old British student Scott Armstrong and his Vertiges diadem-- Chaumet Vertiges Tiara 2017-21-year-old British student Scott Armstrong and his Vertiges diadem Chaumet Vertiges Tiara 2017 - Chaumet and Central Saint Martins, UAL create the diadem of the 21st century-