The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is not merely a watch; it is a cultural collision that has successfully re-engineered one of jewelry’s most feminine icons into a predatory, mechanical “Horological Machine.”
In the high-octane world of luxury collaborations, this release stands as a masterclass in how to respect heritage while ruthlessly modernizing it. Here is an analysis of its industry impact, design philosophy, and the legacy it is already building.
1. The Industry Pivot: Genders and Genres
Historically, the Serpenti (born in 1948) has been the ultimate “It Girl” accessory—a slithering, gem-set bracelet that just happened to tell time. By partnering with Maximilian Büsser, Bvlgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani has performed a “mechanical metamorphosis.”
The First “Masculine” Snake: For the first time in 75 years, the Serpenti is being marketed toward the male or gender-neutral collector. By replacing diamonds with a flying balance wheel and swapping gold scales for automotive-inspired louvers, the brands have broadened the Serpenti’s appeal from the red carpet to the high-end workshop.
The “Friendship” Economy: This collaboration represents a shifting industry trend where “Big Luxury” (Bvlgari/LVMH) no longer looks down on “Independent Horology” (MB&F). Instead, they treat them as equal creative partners. This adds a layer of “street cred” to Bvlgari’s watchmaking and provides MB&F with the unmatched reach of a global luxury titan.
@BVLGARI X MB&F SERPENTI Watch
2. Design Philosophy: “Snakes & Supercars”
While the watch is undeniably serpentine, the secret to its aesthetic success is actually found on the racetrack. Both Max and Fabrizio are car enthusiasts, and that shared obsession is baked into the case:
Biomorphic Bodywork: The 53mm case is machined with 5-axis 3D mills to mimic the aerodynamic curves of a 1930s Bugatti Atlantic.
The “Louvred” Gaze: The rear sapphire crystal features a “stepped” design reminiscent of the rear window flaps on a vintage sports car.
The Eyes Have It: The genius move was turning the “eyes” into the time-tellers. Using paper-thin aluminum domes (to minimize weight and energy drag), the left eye tracks hours while the right tracks minutes. At night, the Super-LumiNova gives the serpent an eerie, bioluminescent glow.
3. Technical Importance: The “Brain” in the Middle
At the center of the watch sits a massive 14mm flying balance wheel. In MB&F’s “Animalia” universe (which includes frogs and bulldogs), this balance wheel represents the creature’s brain.
The Calibre: Based on the architecture of the HM10 “Bulldog,” the movement had to be entirely reconfigured to fit the elongated, triangular head of the snake.
The Manufacturing “Nightmare”: Machining five separate curved sapphire crystals and fitting them into a biomorphic gold frame—while maintaining 30 meters of water resistance—is a feat that most traditional manufacturers would have deemed impossible.
4. Market Place and Legacy
At 164,300 CHF, this is a piece for the “Completionist Collector”—the person who likely already owns a Serpenti Tubogas and a Legacy Machine. Its legacy will be defined by two things:
Icon Evolution: It proves that an “Icon” doesn’t have to be static. It can change its skin (literally) and move from a jewelry piece to a kinetic sculpture without losing its soul.
The New Collector Profile: It appeals to a younger, tech-savvy HNWI who values “mechanical poetry” over traditional status symbols.
