In the hallowed halls of Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, the watchmaking world just held up a mirror to its own soul. The 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) wasn’t just a ceremony; it was a manifesto. As the “Aiguille d’Or” found its home with Breguet for the Classique Souscription 2025, the message to the industry was clear: in an era of digital noise and hyper-complication, the ultimate luxury is a return to essentialism.
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The Crown of “Breguet Gold”
Breguet’s victory is a poetic full circle for the house’s 250th anniversary. The Classique Souscription 2025 is a masterclass in restraint, stripping watchmaking back to its purest form—a single hand. Yet, beneath its minimalist “Grand Feu” enamel dial lies a technological fortress. Crafted in a proprietary “Breguet Gold” (a luminous alloy of gold, silver, copper, and palladium), it houses the VS00 calibre, a manual-wind engine that hums with a staggering 96-hour power reserve. By awarding the top prize to a single-hand watch, the jury, led by the astute Nick Foulkes, has signaled a pivot toward “Slow Watchmaking”—where the narrative and the metal are given space to breathe.
The Nanomechanic Revolution
While Breguet won for its soul, Greubel Forsey claimed the Mechanical Exception Prize for its brain. The Nano Foudroyante is a glimpse into the 2030s. By managing energy at the nanojoule scale—reducing consumption by a factor of 1,800 compared to traditional systems—they have achieved what was once physically impossible: housing a flying tourbillon and a foudroyante (lightning seconds) in a compact 37.9mm case. It proves that the future of “Big Watchmaking” is actually quite small, focusing on efficiency over sheer mass.
Audacity and the Independent Rising
Perhaps the most electric moment of the night was the Audacity Prize awarded to Fam Al Hut for the Möbius. A brand less than two years old, hailing from China, it has successfully disrupted the Swiss establishment with the world’s most compact bi-axis tourbillon. This, coupled with Anton Suhanov’s “St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock” winning the Horological Revelation Prize, confirms that the geographic and conceptual borders of Haute Horlogerie are officially dissolving.
A Renaissance of Form
The 2025 winners also suggest a definitive end to the “Oversized Era.” From Daniel Roth’s ultra-thin “Extra Plat” in Rose Gold (Time Only Prize) to Urban Jürgensen’s refined UJ-2 (Men’s Watch Prize), the trend is moving toward architectural elegance. These are watches designed to slip under a cuff, not scream from the wrist. Even Bvlgari continued its pursuit of the “impossible thin” with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, proving that the technical battleground has moved from how much can we add, to how much can we take away.
The Verdict
The 25th GPHG tells us that the industry is in a state of healthy reflection. We are seeing a “Renaissance of the Purists,” where heritage is respected through innovation rather than imitation. With the Special Jury Prize honoring Alain Dominique Perrin, the man who helped turn Cartier into a cultural titan, the evening reminded us that a watch is only as valuable as the art it inspires.
2025 PRIZE LIST
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix : Breguet, Classique Souscription 2025
Chronometry Prize: Zenith, G.F.J. Calibre 135
Horological Revelation Prize: Anton Suhanov, St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock
Audacity Prize: Fam Al Hut, Möbius
Iconic Watch Prize: Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Greubel Forsey, Nano Foudroyante
Chronograph Watch Prize: Angelus, Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Tourbillon Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Sports Watch Prize: Chopard, Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Men’s Complication Watch Prize: Bovet 1822, Récital 30
Men’s Watch Prize: Urban Jürgensen, UJ-2: Double wheel natural escapement
Time Only Watch Prize: Daniel Roth, Extra Plat Rose Gold
Jewellery Watch Prize: Dior Montres, La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Voutilainen, 28GML SOUYOU
Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Chopard, Imperiale Four Seasons
Ladies’ Watch Prize: gérald genta, Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
“Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize: M.A.D. Editions, M.A.D.2 Green
Challenge Watch Prize: Dennison, Natural Stone Tiger Eye In Gold
Mechanical Clock Prize: L’Épée 1839, Albatross L’Épée 1839 X MB&F
Special Jury Prize: Alain Dominique Perrin
About the GPHG : Created in 2001 and overseen since 2011 by a Foundation recognised as a public interest organisation, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has for 25 years been pursuing its mission to celebrate and promote the watchmaking art, thanks to the support of its public and private partners, notably its main partner, FGP Swiss & Alps, as well as the involvement of industry stakeholders.
