Laced-up Thigh-Boots and Deep Slit Skirts – An Instant hit at Patou Shopping Chronicles

Paris Fashion Week: a look back at Patou Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection.

@Patou Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection

Under the glass roof of La Samaritaine Paris, Patou artistic director Guillaume Henry presented a collection entitled “Shopping Chronicles”. Carrying chic Caddie shopping bags, bucket hats on their heads and shades perched on their noses, the silhouettes meandered with ready-to-roll fantasy.

Patou laced-up thigh-boots designed in collaboration with Maison Ernest set off a wardrobe for women on the go in monochrome colorways of red, black, lavender, pink or burgundy.

Shimmering puffers segue to velvet evening dresses, cozy knits are joined by denim, and high-cut smocks are worn over pencil or deep slit skirts. Patou bags are carried over the shoulder or in the hand, ready for every moment of the day amidst plays of materials and volumes. Pleated mini-skirts and crop tops reveal some skin, and hair bows underscore the feminine allure of the Patou muses.

@Patou Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection. @instagram.com/patou/

Born in 1887, Jean Patou founded his first couture house when he was just 23 years old.

With his Jean Patou brand, created in 1914, “the most elegant man in Europe” – as the American press called him – revolutionized women’s fashion. A true aesthete and pioneer, Jean Patou designed evening gowns that were as elegantly simple as they were chic, along with the first relaxed sportswear collections.

Jean Patou welcomed the heroines of the era to the headquarters of his Maison on rue St. Florentin, including Louise Brooks, Joséphine Baker and Mistinguett, as well as tennis champion Suzanne Lenglen and music hall stars the Dolly Sisters.

A visionary and lover of speed sports, Jean Patou died in 1936 when he was just 48. His Maison, which had become a fashion institution, was helmed by a succession of stellar designers: Marc Bohan, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix.

In 2018 maison Jean Patou was reborn with a new name – Patou – and a new creative director Guillaume Henry. He will present his first women’s ready-to-wear collection in Paris in September 2019.

@Patou Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection
Le Petit Patou bag by @Patou

Le Petit Patou by Venetia Scott. The signature Le Patou bag has a mini coup de cœur: Le Petit Patou !

Patou collaborated with photographer Venetia Scott on its latest campaign, featuring Patou’s new bag Le Petit Patou, and the spring summer 2023 collection.

An essential handbag for the essentials, from day to night, in a new Patou-palette of marigold, orchid, storm, black, ivory, ice yellow, and saffron clay.

For the gamer, DYI, scientist, chef, athlete, equestrian, student, or influencer – beside every great woman is a Petit Patou! Adjust and wear it as a purse, across the chest, or a long shoulder. And bien sûr, in the spirit of the Patou Way, Le Petit Patou is made entirely out of deadstock leather.

Le Petit Patou bag by @Patou
@Patou Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection. @instagram.com/patou/

Michael Kors steers cozy towards chic with equestrian collection

Michael Kors MKC Monogramme bowler bag make its debut. @Michael Kors

 

Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Michael Kors steers cozy towards chic with equestrian collection” was written by Jess Cartner-Morley in New York, for theguardian.com on Wednesday 12th February 2020 18.04 UTC

“Don’t get me wrong, I am all for comfort, but I like a little polish too. These days I see women on the city streets wearing jogging bras,” lamented Michael Kors before his New York fashion week show. “I’m thinking of getting ‘chic is not a dirty word’ printed on a T-shirt.”

If he did, it would undoubtedly sell. Michael Kors is the man who brought the It bag to the masses, inventing a new category of “affordable luxury”, and his success has made billionaires of Kors and two of his early business partners. His commercial mindset was evident in the audience for his latest catwalk show – staged, appropriately, at the former American Stock Exchange headquarters in Manhattan’s financial district – where 10% of invitations were reserved for his biggest spending clients.

Next season, Kors wants to sell women a chic alternative to athleisure. “The best clothes make you feel like you are in a chic security blanket,” he said. “You should feel cosy, you should feel relaxed. And you know what always works, when you want to be chic but also be comfortable? Equestrian!”

Expensive-looking and erotic-adjacent, equestrian chic has long been a go-to for Michael Kors. This time around, he revisited looks from a 1999 collection. “That season, Naomi Campbell wore a stripe blanket cape on the runway, and the next day I got a phone call from Joan Didion, and Joan loved that cape, so of course we got her a cape. I’ve got a great photo of Joan in that cape.” A new version of the cape walked the catwalk on Wednesday morning, in camel with wide bands of clementine and chocolate brown at the hem, worn over a sweater dress with flat riding boots in rich suede. Other equestrian-tilted looks included a quilted grey cashmere half-zip hoodie, layered over a chunky polo neck and midi-length skirt. Like most outfits in the show, they were accessorised with a handbag. “Every bag in this collection can be carried hands-free”, Kors noted. “That’s just how we live now.”

As Kors approaches his 40th anniversary in business next year, he has been attempting to retroactively build up his archive. “When I started I didn’t keep archives. I was young, I didn’t think about it. So I often contact vintage stores and ask that if they get any of my clothes come in from the 1980s or early 1990s to let me know so that I can buy them. But they always tell me they don’t have anything – because women don’t get rid of my clothes. My clothes last, and women wear them for ever. Isn’t that great?” Now he is keen to teach “my new 22-year-old customers, who grew up with fast fashion, about the pride of owning something that lasts”.

Model Bella Hadid shows off an evening gown made of sustainably manufactured sequins at Michael Kors show.
Model Bella Hadid shows off an evening gown made of sustainably manufactured sequins at Michael Kors show. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

Top of Kors’ personal best-dressed list right now is Billie Eilish, the 18-year-old singer currently disrupting the norms of red carpet fashion by wearing voluminous, baggy clothes rather than bare, form-fitting dresses. At the Oscars on Sunday, Eilish’s custom-made Chanel look was an oversized trousersuit with a high collar. “I love what Billie Eilish is doing,” said Kors. “She’s sending a fabulous message. She’s saying, ‘This is about my talent, not my body.’ I’ve always loved knitwear for night. You shouldn’t have to be naked and miserably uncomfortable in eveningwear.”

Next season’s comfortable evening dresses come, naturally, with a generous dash of glamour: an ebony gown was entirely covered in sequins, sustainably manufactured from recycled plastic bottles.

Lisane and Jeanine Basquiat, younger sisters of the late Jean-Michel Basquiat, were guests of honour at the Coach catwalk show, which featured the artist’s niece Jessica among the models. The collection was inspired by Basquiat, who “has always been a hero of mine, for his work and his style and as the ultimate icon of the unorthodox creativity of New York”, said Stuart Vevers, the British designer of Coach. Basquiat’s artwork appeared on several pieces in the collection.

The Coach show was a celebration of New York, in a fashion week which has been left threadbare by several marquee-name defections. Tom Ford staged his show in LA this season, Tommy Hilfiger will present his in London and Ralph Lauren is sitting out fashion week in favour of a stand-alone show in April.

As well as the Basquiat family, the show featured a live performance by New York icon Debbie Harry. “In the seven years I’ve been at Coach, I don’t think I’ve ever put together a mood board that didn’t have a photo of Debbie Harry on it,” said Vevers. “When I found this venue, which is such a classic New York industrial loft, and started visualising how it would all come together, I had the idea of having her sing so I thought – well, I might as well ask. And amazingly, she said yes.”

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Jean Patou has now been reborn with a new name and a new artistic director

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