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Made by Humans: predictions for the future of luxury retail

 

The vision for the future of luxury retail according to Yoox Net-A-Porter Group Chairman and CEO, Federico Marchetti
The vision for the future of luxury retail according to Yoox Net-A-Porter Group Chairman and CEO, Federico Marchetti; @Yoox Net-A-Porter Group YouTube

The vision for the future of luxury retail according to Yoox Net-A-Porter Group Chairman and CEO, Federico Marchetti.

Last month, Yoox Net-A-Porter Group Chairman & CEO Federico Marchetti took the stage at the 2019 World Retail Congress in Amsterdam, the event bringing together the leaders of the global retail industry to discover the latest changes shaping the sector of high-velocity retail.

Each year the World Retail Congress selects a key theme impacting the global retail industry. In 2019 the theme – High Velocity Retail – captures the essence of what it means to be a successful retailer in the twenty-first century; the ability to understand consumers and build a business agile enough to respond to their latest expectations.

Talking on The New Luxury Landscape: Balancing Human & Machine, Federico outlined his vision for the future of luxury retail and how success will depend on striking the right balance between Human & Machine, making an exciting announcement about a new partnership with Instagram in the process.

Marchetti’s speech covered the entire ecosystem, from technology and craftsmanship, to serving customers in the right way, personalisation, logistics, omnichannel and the human touch.

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He noted that fundamental to solving this puzzle is a deep understanding of the luxury customer and strategies to serve them underpinned by five key points: luxury service, uniqueness, curation & inspiration through content, sustainability and mobile.
Marchetti then announced a new partnership with Instagram which will allow millions of the Group’s social followers to instantly buy their perfect piece from us without ever leaving the Instagram app – a compelling complement to the Group’s content-to-commerce strategy that enhances the mobile luxury experience.

“We have a history of being first-movers in online luxury. Checkout is an opportunity that will enable our millions of followers to satisfy their instant shopping desires without leaving the Instagram app. It’s a compelling complement to our content-to-commerce strategy and we look forward to pioneering another innovation together with Instagram to deliver an unmatched mobile luxury retail experience.”

Marchetti noted that personalisation is crucial to giving customers a luxurious experience. Sharing prototypes built for a visit by HRH The Prince of Wales and HRH The Duchess of Cornwall in 2018, he showed how insights such as weather, location, past purchases and other information that the customer wishes to share could be used to tailor each store to individual customers.

The vision for the future of luxury retail according to Yoox Net-A-Porter Group Chairman and CEO, Federico Marchetti-
The vision for the future of luxury retail according to Yoox Net-A-Porter Group Chairman and CEO, Federico Marchetti; @Yoox Net-A-Porter Group YouTube

Today, the homepage teaches us that sometimes only technology can make the customer experience more personal, more customized. No more will you see one page for three million customers. Instead, you’ll see three million pages created instantaneously for each customer.

Marchetti also noted how we now have to create a consistent brand experience across every channel – physical and digital – to meet the customers expectations at every moment.

“I believe the physical boutique and the human touch will always play a role in luxury. We are creating a totally seamless experience between online and offline that will revolutionise how we shop for luxury.”

Concluding his speech, Marchetti made a prediction that underlined the need for the luxury industry to make difficult choices that stop us from replacing what we truly value:

I’d like to make a prediction. Today we see labels like “Made in Italy, ‘British made’ or ‘Swiss watches.’ I think that one day we will see another label: “Made by Humans.

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Marc Jacobs brushes aside the rumours with a dramatic flourish

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Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Marc Jacobs brushes aside the rumours with a dramatic flourish” was written by Lauren Cochrane in New York, for theguardian.com on Thursday 14th February 2019 00.38 UTC

Christy Turlington, one of the original 1990s supermodels, was the last to walk the Marc Jacobs runway on Wednesday night at New York fashion week. Like the other models, a single spotlight fell on her and her feathered strapless gown. The mood of this show was cinematic, with guests sitting on metal stools in a darkened room watching models only illuminated by that single spotlight. The orchestral music, with frenzied violins, only added to the drama and suspense.

The backstory here is that Jacobs’ brand is one that continues to have rumours of a troubled atmosphere swirl around it with stores closing recently and staff numbers cut. There is increasing speculation that the brand may close. Jacobs’ appearance at the end of the show – where he looked visibly emotional – will only stoke those rumours.

Christy Turlington on the catwalk at Marc Jacobs’ show.
Christy Turlington on the catwalk at Marc Jacobs’ show. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

In some senses, however, it was business as usual here. The front row featured Kerry Washington, Tracee Ellis Ross and Sofia Coppola and, unlike last season, the show started – as is Jacobs’ usual custom – bang on 6pm.

The collection showed the skills of a designer who has been in fashion for over 30 years. Gorgeous clouds of black tulle were transformed into a strapless gown, and a checked trouser suit with metallic threads was a playful take on tailoring. Tiered floral dresses worn under capes had a fairytale heroine feel to them, while other models’ outfits – with checked coats and feathered veils – could have come straight from a Hitchcock film. Jacobs’ current preoccupation is volume – hence more cloud-like dresses and a floor-length green glittered gown with a bustle at the back. The last 10 or so outfits – all in black and white – felt classically chic.

On the Marc Jacobs runway.
On the Marc Jacobs runway. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

This is unlikely to stop the industry chatter, however. Last June, the New York Times ran an article titled How Marc Jacobs Fell Out of Fashion in which it revealed the company – part of the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH – had estimated losses of around €50m (£44m) annually for several years, with flat revenues. The September show at New York Fashion Week did little to quash rumours of trouble. It started 90 minutes late, with several editors, including Anna Wintour, leaving before it began.

The front row at Marc Jacobs. From left to right: Carla Bruna, Mark Chao, Mark Langer, Vanessa Kirby, Richard Madden and Maluma.
The front row at Marc Jacobs. From left to right: Carla Bruna, Mark Chao, Mark Langer, Vanessa Kirby, Richard Madden and Maluma. Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

Perhaps as a counterpoint to the chatter, Jacobs is on something of a bid to rebrand himself as a celebrity. This week, he announced – via a video on his favoured medium of Instagram, featuring his two dogs and influencer Derek Blasberg – that he will be relaunching the Marc Jacobs YouTube channel, with this show live-streamed on the platform. He also has the requisite controversies required for that spot in the public eye. In January, it was revealed that Jacobs would be sued by Nirvana for using a version of their smiley-face logo in his Redux Grunge collection.

Earlier in the day, Michael Kors ensured a night to remember for his show despite its 10am start time. Barry Manilow, dressed in an orange sequin jacket, was joined by Patti Hansen and a gaggle of models, to sing Copacabana for the finale.

With disco the mood, guests – including Catherine Zeta-Jones, Michael Douglas and Kate Hudson – were greeted by a collection of chandeliers and disco balls in a darkened room on Wall Street. The collection provided the wardrobe. Sequins, gold, marabou and platform heels came as standard across men’s and womenswear with flamboyance and glamour the key words. In case anyone was in doubt of the disco theme, the logo of Studio 54 – now shorthand for the most debauched ideal of 1970s New York nightlife – covered a floor-length padded jacket, a sequin minidress and luggage.

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