The hottest intel for next season. Pass it on
1 Mash-up
Everyone was into the clash. Alexander Wang kicked off his #WANGFEST in New York with half-n-half skinny jeans: one leg chain mail, one leg denim, paired with a V-neck jumper spliced with a satin slip. Balenciaga’s thing was camo T-shirts and newsprint shirts with red check trousers. Gucci’s granny-chic took a trip with leopard-print jackets and floral dresses. Chloe liked a demi-lace, demi-snakeskin situation on a slip dress, while the godmother of sartorial mash-ups, Miuccia Prada, threw a striped shirt under a polka-dot raincoat at Prada and zigzag sweaters with plaid skirts at Miu Miu. Mix don’t match.
2 Nice ice
Drop it like it’s hot. The ear-achingly fashionable will be leaving last season’s geometric designs aside for heavy crystal hoops and diamonds as big as the Ritz. And while we love Chanel’s maxed-out icy teardrops (below), the dripping diamante at Burberry and ornate hoops at Christopher Kane, it was good to see the more affordable Topshop had eyes on ice too. Bling it on.
3 Retro-sportif
No one’s skipping games this season, right? Louis Vuitton opened its SS18 show with sky-blue satin gym shorts, trainers and a structured sports bag with a distinct air of 1980’s Dunlop. Vetements – which has an upcoming collaboration with Umbro – is on the same vibe with tennis-player tracksuits and thigh-high hockey socks. Guys, girls, team short-shorts or cycling shorts with 1970s-style anoraks for a winning look.
4 Check in
No more shame. At its see-now-buy-now show Burberry revived the brand’s signature check and we’re all into it. Check caps are back, this time worn with Dynasty style earrings and the mod-boy jackets come oversized and slouchy. With Balenciaga exhibiting a heavy love of tartan for next season we advise an early check in.
5 The message
The slogo is still with us. Nearly a year since Rihanna wore the We Should All Be Feminists T-shirt on the evening of the Women’s March, will Dior’s Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists? T-shirt have the same impact? And is Vuitton’s Stranger Things tee just a little too Netflix merchandise department for some tastes? Either way, from Vetements and Versace to Balenciaga, Armani and Sonia Rykiel, most of the majors want a word: brand logos are sticking around.
6 Bum a bag
Kendall Jenner was ahead of the fanny pack when she wore vintage Chanel and Vuitton bum bags earlier this year. Now everyone’s at it – Henry Holland, Fenty X Puma, Saint Laurent and Marc Jacobs. We are so down with this. When practical is fashionable, it’s not a bummer.
7 All-over colour
Versace’s pastel pink trousers, logo T-shirt, bitty bag and loafer ensemble is like SS18’s cool drink of water. Kaia Gerber opened Versace’s show in yellow leopard-print cropped jacket, trouser and matching heel, while Marc Jacobs made a tangerine dream trouser suit with matching polo neck. Too sweet? Go for the black leather trouser suit seen at Vetements, Versace and Gucci. Twinning? Winning.
8 Tailored
The new suit swings both ways. Gucci’s boys were in kilts and daisy shirts, while the girls wore jewelled-velvet blazers. Chloe channelled Diane Keaton in Annie Hall with a waistcoat – it’s going to be big – and trouser suit. While Bianca Jagger’s skinny-tie-tux style spirit showed up at Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent, there were jumbo jackets at Marc Jacobs and skirt suits were supersized at Celine.
9 Keep your socks on
There is nothing more joyful than spangly socks with shoes. The lurex socks and tartan sandals at Burberry is a styling tip we’re taking straight into the party season. While Marc Jacobs teamed neat black ankle socks with bloom-appliqued gold sandals and fancy pointy flats, Miu Miu favoured flourescent yellow with diamante kitten heels. Too much happiness.
10 Get layered
We prefer to think of this as dressing like E.T. rather than Steve Bannon, but layering is big news when it comes to styling. Celine introduced its “double trench”, a capey layer attached to another coat (to protect your bag in the rain), and Burberry layered its signature print jacket over pink rain macs. Miu Miu’s long tartan ‘90s slips came over tops, while lace dresses ran over sweaters and sharp-collared shirts. Dior did a black strappy dress over candy-striped shirt complete with bowler hat and bag – Mr Banks gone wild!
By Ellen Burney; pictures: Getty Images, Jason Lloyd Evans
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