It’s hard to think of a time when Vetements was an insider brand and not the most talked-about label of the last few years. But such is the unrelenting pace of the fashion cycle – and moreover, Vetements’s place within that cycle – that the Parisian brand is set to relaunch its debut collection, already considered to be a cult classic.
Vetements is the Parisian label run by a group of semi-anonymous designers headed up by the Georgian Demna Gvasalia. Its debut 36-piece collection was shown to an inner-circle industry group and was, on first sight, a baffling confection: jeans with stepped hems; hoodies with too-long sleeves; trenchcoats with exaggerated proportions; trashed boots with lighters for heels. The New York Times called it “fashion with an aggressive street bent” and rightly so. This was a collection of everyday pieces mutated in a bid to put a subversive spin on the ordinary.
Widely considered to be anti-establishment fashion loved by the establishment, Gvasalia’s label was so widely lauded that soon after Vetements launched, that he was given artistic directorship of Balenciaga, one of the most famous luxury labels in the industry. The designer however takes some umbrage with the way Vetements is still seen as an outsider: “It’s easy to label it ‘anti’ because it seemed to be slightly outside of the system,” he explains. “But we are in the system. We are a part of it. We play the game, we just play it by our own rules.”
Vogue e-site, Style.com, has worked with the label to relaunch the autumn/winter collection, which will be available online from 30 September.
guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2010