Riccardo Tisci’s final Burberry Show embraces the idealism and realism inherent in a quintessential British attitude

Burberry Spring/ Summer 2023: Inspired by the seaside and recontextualised within London. From reworked trenches and streetwear-inspired shapes to tailoring and gowns, Riccardo Tisci’s final Burberry Show was inspired by the beach as a place of community​. From fishnet lace flocked with the Equestrian Knight Design to porthole cutouts, the Burberry SS23 runway show paid … Read more

Burberry SS 2022 unleashed a very raw energy that’s powerful and full of life. Like an awakening.

  Burberry reveals its Spring/Summer 2022 campaign, exploring the power of self-expression. Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2022 collections by Riccardo Tisci, further explore the idea of identity with narratives around femininity and masculinity, emphasising fluidity and the power of self-expression. The collections challenge the traditional, iconic silhouettes that are deconstructed and rebuilt in strong and striking silhouettes … Read more

Universal Passport: Burberry SS2022 looks brim with youthful experimentation

 

For the Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 menswear presentation, Burberry Creative Director Riccardo Tisci melds the feelings of freedom and togetherness in an exploration of the forces that connect and inspire us – those which make us feel alive.

@Burberry Spring – Summer 2022 show

Burberry collection’s name ‘Universal Passport’ can be seen emblazoned across sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming the presentation’s message of connectivity and exploration.

This presentation is all about the power and the beauty of self-expression and about escaping and coming together as one to  celebrate our creativity.” – Riccardo Tisci

Outerwear staples are pushed to the fore in new sleeveless non-conforming silhouettes. The iconic Burberry trench coat is re-cut with raglan and panelled capped sleeves as well as with a stand collar. Cotton twill car coats forego collars and add buttoned shoulders, transforming the design into a boat-neck style. Sleeveless leather bomber jackets return with accentuated rib-knit trims and press-stud straps.

An experimental sense of freedom is conveyed throughout Burberry Spring Summer 2021 collection, seen through black leather halterneck vests, coats, trousers and briefs.

@Burberry Spring – Summer 2022 show

Cotton vests and hoodies are refashioned with organic-shaped leather panels and cut-out details for a rebellious take on staples. The playful chest plate motif printed across T-shirts and trench coats. The collection title, ‘Universal Passport’, featured on sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming a message of connectivity and exploration.

“I have always been inspired by music and by its ability to transport your mind – how it can connect you with times, places and people beyond boundaries. Music has played a big role in my life, like a running soundtrack and energy throughout my youth. So many of my memories forged through music take me back to an incredible time when I was discovering myself – my voice, my identity, my creativity – sharing my experiences with friends and sometimes even strangers along the way. It was like being on a universal journey, brought together by a collective sense of openness, acceptance and opportunity.” – added Tisci. 

Burberry’s ode to the escapism of the outdoors continues.

Sleeveless shirts, shorts and trousers with proliferated strap details, contrasting topstitched bib-front trousers and exaggerated adornments on hoods. Symmetrical rows of cargo straps fixed to the front of coats. A sleeveless leather funnel-neck dress and skirts crafted for movement. Abstract curved prints on sheer T-shirts, mesh vests and cotton shirts evoke the flowing forms of camouflage. Tailoring challenges the conventional. Coats and English-fit blazers with button-embellished lapels, worn with tailored trousers. Reconstructed shirts with layered turtlenecks, or bib-front button-down shirts.

In womenswear, a continuation of metallic finishes fused with the season’s sheer fabrics. Abstract motifs adorn a lamé slip dress layered under a printed sheer top. The trench in sequinned sheer fabric with zebra-print trims. Mirrored square sequins applied to bikinis with a wrap-around strap detail, worn under cargo trousers and a gilet quilted with a globe graphic motif.

@Burberry

In the bag category, Burberry is introducing new quilted check leather bags, including a backpack and crossbody, both embellished with the Thomas Burberry Monogram. The simply proportioned leather messenger bags with whipstitch straps in beige or monochrome are stamped with the ‘Universal Passport’ print.

“I wanted the collection to capture that free spirit of youth and its honest and daring attitude, that sense of experimentation and fluidity. There is a strong feeling of unity but also of individuality – encouraging and uplifting each other to express ourselves freely. It’s a very raw energy that’s infectious, exciting and full of life. Like an awakening.’ – concluded Burberry Chief Creative Officer.

@Burberry
@Burberry

Escapes: The Burberry Autumn/Winter 2021 Menswear is Longing for the Great Outdoors

    The Burberry Autumn/Winter 2021 menswear honours a deep connection to the outdoors. The new Riccardo Tisci collection offers a fresh perspective to the classics – the trench coat, tailoring and Burberry beige. Tied intrinsically to founder Thomas Burberry’s creations, the idea of optimism and adventure underscores the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2021 menswear collection presented … Read more

Burberry announces luxury’s first social retail store. Thomas’s Cafe is included

  Burberry wants to pioneer a concept that blends social media and retail in China Social media is becoming such an important part of the luxury customer journey, particularly in the inspiration phase, and retail needs to keep pace with this. Luxury fashion house Burberry and Chinese technology powerhouse Tencent have entered into an exclusive … Read more

Burberry showcases modern equestrian chic at London fashion week

The finale of the #BurberryAutumnWinter20 show, titled ‘Memories’. Set in West London, models walked a raised mirror runway to a unique performance by Arca and classical duo Katia and Marielle Labèque; @burberry

Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Burberry showcases modern equestrian chic at London fashion week” was written by Jess Cartner-Morley, for The Guardian on Monday 17th February 2020 19.14 UTC

“London is the place where I learned to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today,” said Riccardo Tisci, the chief creative officer of Burberry, before his London fashion week show on Monday. “Now I want to share British style with the world and use this incredible heritage to build and humanise the house.”

Burberry, British luxury fashion’s marquee name, could use a boost in morale. London is Burberry’s home, but its commercial heartbeat is now in Asia. With Chinese customers accounting for 40% of Burberry revenues, the brand is one of those that has been hit hardest by the economic impact of coronavirus.

With a troupe of expensive supermodels, Tisci’s fourth season at Burberry was a slick cheerleading routine for the blue-blooded glamour that flows through the label’s veins. In the Victorian pomp of Kensington Olympia, where the iron ribs spanning the vaulted ceiling soar above the mirrored catwalk like the skeleton of a blue whale, a grand piano was the centrepiece for a dressage parade of modern equestrian chic. This season’s look was a more globally bankable take on Burberry than Tisci’s punk- and rave-referencing, subculture-themed collections of last year.

Tisci has made Burberry sexy where his predecessor Christopher Bailey made it romantic. His equestrian silhouette owed as much to Jilly Cooper as to the Grand National. Gigi Hadid wore high, tight jodhpurs tucked into glossy boots. Blazers had nipped waists, and trenchcoats were reinvented as slippery satin dresses with multiple unfastenings. The Victorian architecture of the venue was echoed in corsetry outlines on evening wear, while quilted nylon stable-hand jackets looked a strong commercial offer for the more street-orientated Burberry customer. This was a collection tailored to helping Burberry weather the current economic storm.

Models present creations during the Burberry catwalk show
This season’s look was a more globally bankable take than Tisci’s subculture-themed collections of last year. Photograph: Henry Nicholls/Reuters

More than a third of the label’s 64 stores in mainland China have been closed since the coronavirus outbreak hit the region. This month, the company’s chief executive, Marco Gobbetti, acknowledged the material negative effect of the outbreak on luxury demand. It is a further blow to Burberry, already hit hard by the effect on retail of anti-government protests in Hong Kong, where its sales in the final quarter of 2019 were down 50% on the previous year.

This London fashion week show had been scheduled to be reprised in Shanghai, on 23 April, at an event for Chinese press, influencers and clients that would have featured the same clothes alongside exclusive additional looks for Chinese Burberry customers. When the Shanghai show was announced, Tisci described China as “a country that has always been so supportive of me” and Shanghai as “one of the most innovative and inspiring cities in the world”. The event has been postponed indefinitely.

At the day’s earlier shows by Erdem and at JW Anderson, the 1920s made a comeback. Shawl-collared tuxedos of the roaring 20s inspired the wing-collared padded coats at JW Anderson, which he called “nouveau chic”.

Erdem, whose modernist flamboyant gowns are a feature of the art-fair social scene, worked with Robin Muir, the curator of the National Portrait Gallery’s upcoming exhibition about Cecil Beaton, to develop themes from the exhibition on his catwalk.

“Beaton was truly experimental – so much more than a society photographer,” said Erdem backstage in front of a mood board showing the teenage Beaton’s early stage sets in which he dressed up his sisters and himself in 20s gowns against makeshift backdrops. On the catwalk, Beaton’s own leopard-print dressing gown became a camel coat embroidered with seed pearls clustered into tiny paw-print motifs.

guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2010

Published via the Guardian News Feed plugin for WordPress.