Universal Passport: Burberry SS2022 looks brim with youthful experimentation

 

For the Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 menswear presentation, Burberry Creative Director Riccardo Tisci melds the feelings of freedom and togetherness in an exploration of the forces that connect and inspire us – those which make us feel alive.

@Burberry Spring – Summer 2022 show

Burberry collection’s name ‘Universal Passport’ can be seen emblazoned across sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming the presentation’s message of connectivity and exploration.

This presentation is all about the power and the beauty of self-expression and about escaping and coming together as one to  celebrate our creativity.” – Riccardo Tisci

Outerwear staples are pushed to the fore in new sleeveless non-conforming silhouettes. The iconic Burberry trench coat is re-cut with raglan and panelled capped sleeves as well as with a stand collar. Cotton twill car coats forego collars and add buttoned shoulders, transforming the design into a boat-neck style. Sleeveless leather bomber jackets return with accentuated rib-knit trims and press-stud straps.

An experimental sense of freedom is conveyed throughout Burberry Spring Summer 2021 collection, seen through black leather halterneck vests, coats, trousers and briefs.

@Burberry Spring – Summer 2022 show

Cotton vests and hoodies are refashioned with organic-shaped leather panels and cut-out details for a rebellious take on staples. The playful chest plate motif printed across T-shirts and trench coats. The collection title, ‘Universal Passport’, featured on sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming a message of connectivity and exploration.

“I have always been inspired by music and by its ability to transport your mind – how it can connect you with times, places and people beyond boundaries. Music has played a big role in my life, like a running soundtrack and energy throughout my youth. So many of my memories forged through music take me back to an incredible time when I was discovering myself – my voice, my identity, my creativity – sharing my experiences with friends and sometimes even strangers along the way. It was like being on a universal journey, brought together by a collective sense of openness, acceptance and opportunity.” – added Tisci. 

Burberry’s ode to the escapism of the outdoors continues.

Sleeveless shirts, shorts and trousers with proliferated strap details, contrasting topstitched bib-front trousers and exaggerated adornments on hoods. Symmetrical rows of cargo straps fixed to the front of coats. A sleeveless leather funnel-neck dress and skirts crafted for movement. Abstract curved prints on sheer T-shirts, mesh vests and cotton shirts evoke the flowing forms of camouflage. Tailoring challenges the conventional. Coats and English-fit blazers with button-embellished lapels, worn with tailored trousers. Reconstructed shirts with layered turtlenecks, or bib-front button-down shirts.

In womenswear, a continuation of metallic finishes fused with the season’s sheer fabrics. Abstract motifs adorn a lamé slip dress layered under a printed sheer top. The trench in sequinned sheer fabric with zebra-print trims. Mirrored square sequins applied to bikinis with a wrap-around strap detail, worn under cargo trousers and a gilet quilted with a globe graphic motif.

@Burberry

In the bag category, Burberry is introducing new quilted check leather bags, including a backpack and crossbody, both embellished with the Thomas Burberry Monogram. The simply proportioned leather messenger bags with whipstitch straps in beige or monochrome are stamped with the ‘Universal Passport’ print.

“I wanted the collection to capture that free spirit of youth and its honest and daring attitude, that sense of experimentation and fluidity. There is a strong feeling of unity but also of individuality – encouraging and uplifting each other to express ourselves freely. It’s a very raw energy that’s infectious, exciting and full of life. Like an awakening.’ – concluded Burberry Chief Creative Officer.

@Burberry
@Burberry

Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace Morocco – A voyage outside of time, punctuated by rich savoir-faire

 

 

 

Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior

Wax, a fabric emblematic of Africa was in the spotlight of the Dior 2020 Cruise collection presented in the setting of the El Badi Palace in Morocco as a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion.

With traditional Moroccan ceramics and fabrics, El Badi Palace in Marrakesh, was rich in meaning. Long a meeting place for imagined realms of Europe and Africa, Marrakech also evokes the first successor to Christian Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent.

 

On the occasion of the Dior Cruise 2020 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Uniwax factory and studio (in Ivory Coast) to create pieces from Wax print fabrics, a highly complex, noble cloth whose roots wind between Europe, Asia and Africa. A unifying symbol of multifaceted fashion, the prints came in a multitude of motifs and colors. Dior codes including ‘toile de Jouy’ and ‘tarot’ cards were revisited in the fabrics’ motifs.

“Maria Grazia Chiuri has always had her heart set on establishing creative exchanges with African cultures. With this collection, she sought to dialogue with the real and imagined landscape of Morocco, at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, Europe, and Africa, like a dream destination for artists, poets, writers and eternal adventurers,” commented the LVMH-owned luxury fashion house.

Uniwax, one of the few remaining manufacturers of the fabric using traditional methods, is actively supporting African fashion. Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated as well with African designer Pathé Ouédraogo, known as Pathé’O, who contributed a shirt designed exclusively for the show in tribute to Nelson Mandela.

For the Dior Cruise 2020 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri invited two creative talents, LVMH Prize winner Grace Wales Bonner and New York-based artist Mickalene Thomas, to reinterpret the Maison’s iconic ‘New Look’ silhouette, the ‘Bar’ jacket and skirt. The Bar suit, like all the other pieces, exalts the power of fashion as an inclusive, transnational language.

The Dior archives attest to this fascination by Morocco, in Marc Bohan’s Jungle silhouette or a scarf printed with an African lion that gave life to a savannah bestiary. Landscapes that inspired authors such as Albert Camus, Paul Bowles, Alberto Moravia, and Bernardo Bertolucci unfurl across warp prints, jacquards, and fils coupés. Maria Grazia Chiuri underscores the power of Nature with ecru silk, silk gauze, and shantung that, in shades of sand, indigo or burned red ocher, enhance coats and suits, pleated skirts and trousers.

Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Silhouettes-01
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Silhouettes Backstage
Backstage – Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Silhouettes-
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Silhouettes 100 percent WAX fabrics-
100 percent WAX fabrics – Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Silhouettes
Silhouettes at Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
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Silhouettes at Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Silhouettes 100 percent WAX fabrics 2019
Silhouettes at Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - Key Accessories
Silhouettes at Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior
Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace - a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion-
Silhouettes at Dior 2020 Cruise at El Badi Palace – a dialogue between the Dior wardrobe and African fashion; @dior

Paris fashion week: Bouchra Jarrar shows she means business at Lanvin

New artistic director focuses on practicality and classic glamour at the Hôtel de Ville, a change perhaps inspired by falling profits