I never set out to stick my knife into a restaurant – but some just deserve it

The Observer restaurant critic’s most biting reviews have now been collected in a book. Here, he defends the art of negative criticism – after all, it’s just a part of the job

20 Stories, Manchester: ‘This will doubtless be one of my favourite dinners of 2018’ – restaurant review

Food served at the top of tall buildings tends to be expensive and loveless, but this place breaks that mould

Black Swan head chef: ‘I think people like that we’re quite chilled out’

British pub that won ‘best restaurant in the world’ prides itself on serving innovative food in friendly atmosphere