This article titled “Rave foam, sci-fi sportswear and spanners as jewellery: the key trends from London Collections: Men, SS16″ was written by Lauren Cochrane, for The Guardian on Tuesday 16th June 2015 17.26 UTC
Going out is the new staying in (again)
Fashion has had enough of box sets, supper clubs and Kinfolk interiors. Instead, it’s rediscovered staying out way past bedtime. At Christopher Shannon, this showed itself in the hair as remnants of a foam party, and as a sweaty glow at Lou Dalton. Fashion East newcomer Charles Jeffrey turned his afternoon presentation – named Loverboy, after the club night he runs – into a daytime rave. Looking a little bit worse for wear has never been so stylish.
Moobs are in focus
You know that bit in Mean Girls where Regina George wears a T-shirt with the bits over her breasts cut out and everyone copies her? Designers clearly think men were missing out on that trend, and the general question of how to dress breasts. Craig Green’s show included black jumpers with white gathered wool over the pecs. Christopher Shannon helped out, too – some of his models wore undone bikini tops as necklaces. Try one next summer. Other men will be copying in no time.
Northern Soul trousers are back
Elaine Constantine, and her film Northern Soul, has a lot to answer for. Swooshy wide-legged trousers – a staple of the 70s subculture, that was all about looking good on the dancefloor – are mooted as the new shape for spring. Some of these were sporty, such as those at Astrid Andersen and Craig Green. But the most explicitly Northern came at Topman Design, where they were paired with vests and prints of record-bag patches. Backflips and rare seven-inches optional.
The 90s revival is now mainstream
References to the slacker’s favourite decade were everywhere and – to really ram the point home – half the front row turned up on TFI Friday, including Nick Grimshaw, Lewis Hamilton and Alexa Chung. On the catwalk, the 90s were evident in slouchy skatewear (Coach), Jordan Catalano-approved jumpers with sleeves down to the knuckles (Joseph) and a collection inspired by pirate radio stations (Liam Hodges). Skate ramp sets at Jimmy Choo and Coach provided the backdrop.
A suede jacket is a wise investment at any time of year
What with this being the spring/summer shows, outerwear wasn’t massive on the catwalk. However, what with this being June in Britain, it was another story for those on the front row. By far and away the most popular choice was a suede jacket pretending to be a denim one – the same shape, just far less 40C-wash-cycle-friendly. Model Robert Konjic, a new addition to the LCM front row, wore one, as did Jack Guinness, Nick Grimshaw and Tinie Tempah.
Unisex fashion is here to stay
It’s no longer just a passing trend. A few brands added their thoughts this season. Coach had girls in their show wearing menswear, while MAN designer Rory Parnell Mooney had male models in knitted skirts. JW Anderson, who has put men in corsets on his catwalk, led the way. Inspired in part by David Bowie, the collection, a bit like the pop star, walked a line between genders.
Cottweiler are ones to watch
For new talent, LCM is chock-a-block. Both Grace Wales Bonner and Alex Mullins deserve honourable mentions, but, with Newgen sponsorship for the first time, Cottweiler moved from cult to buzzy brand this season. Founded by Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty in 2012, it’s all about sportswear that looks like it comes from the future. The collection, shown on squash courts in a leisure centre, was all-white, and made of intriguing fabrications like iridescent plastic. Kanye West’s call is only a matter of time.
Household items can now be considered accessories
Forget It bags – for next spring, it’s far more fashionable to carry around a spanner, or even a spoon. JW Anderson transferred the tool kit from the back of the shed to the catwalk. Models in his show wore a brooch worn with tiny charms of a spanner, a ratchet, pliers and an axe. Tom Ford, meanwhile, mentioned the gleam of spoons when talking about the inspiration behind a marble-effect dinner jacket. Namechecking the contents of your cutlery drawer – a sure sign this reveller has settled down to happy domesticity.
LCM (and mankle) ambassador Tinie Tempah on what makes a good show soundtrack
The more eclectic the better: Liam Hodges, the MAN designer, had a rapper do a spoken-word piece. It’s always great when the clothes are inspired by music, as they were with that show.
Dunhill had classic three-piece suits and classical music: That works, because it’s not going to be a 19-year-old going out in Shoreditch buying those suits. Richard James and Hardy Amies are brands that could work with classic rock. It’s like an advert.
Live music is exciting: With Burberry and Oliver Spencer, you get the double whammy of amazing clothes and an incredible musician. A live artist works with the heritage of Burberry, too.
Silence is bad and dodgy mixing jobs aren’t great: The models are walking to the beat, and if it’s too quick or the beat’s out, it can ruin the experience.
You’re looking at collections for six months’ time – so music that is abstract, or experimental production, works. I liked the grime at Maharishi and Caseley-Hayford. It’s like looking into a different world.
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