The visual universe of the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show.
Suspended, fresh, feminine. Between fantasy and reality, the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection designed by Virginie Viard expressed an ethereal lightness. Bright, joyful silhouettes float amidst geometric structures in a graphic setting created by Xavier Veilhan. A decor evoking equestrian curves and constructive lines contrasts with airy silhouettes, delicate embroideries and precious flowers.
In response to Virginie Viard’s invitation, artist Xavier Veilhan has created the visual universe for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show at the Grand Palais Éphémère.
For the first time ever, CHANEL has entrusted a contemporary artist to imagine the staging of a show. Part landscape, part garden and part open theatre stage, Xavier Veilhan’s project for CHANEL integrated both the catwalk and seating reserved for spectators. This functional layout conjures up images and notions dear to the artist: from the equestrian and canine paths to the architecture of a mini-golf course, from the principle of lightness (inflatable elements) to the use of simple and seemingly modest materials (natural plywood, floor mats, stage risers).
“We also find recurring elements of the artist’s vocabulary here, in particular the image of the horse (often present, filmed or represented in his shows), the oversized musical instruments by the Studio Venezia from the French Pavilion at the Venice Biennale (2017), as well as allusions to a modernity that began with the avantgarde of the 1920s. All references that intersect with the world of CHANEL and echo the creations of Mademoiselle Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard.” – Chanel.
For this project, Virginie Viard and Xavier Veilhan decided to work with the songwriter Sébastien Tellier – who has been close to the designer and the House of CHANEL for many years -, the photographer Ola Rindal, with whom Xavier Veilhan has signed a series of images, and the set designer Alexis Bertrand. Each of them has already been involved with exhibitions, performances and shows by the artist. Charlotte Casiraghi, the House ambassador and an accomplished horsewoman, is portrayed in a film that evokes an imaginary world linked to CHANEL. Sébastien Tellier, author-composer and friend of the the luxury brand, performed a series of new tracks specially composed for the occasion on oversized instruments, and the Cristal Baschet, a rare crystal organ from the Studio Venezia of the French Pavilion at the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017.
Charlotte Casiraghi, who opened the Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show on horseback, presented a collarless CHANEL jacket with 3/4 sleeves, with jeweled buttons and rounded shoulders worn with matching flared trousers in lapis blue tweed woven with sequins and ribbons.
The soft and deliberately subdued lighting created a dreamlike atmosphere, emphasising the beauty of the models and the extreme delicacy of the Haute Couture creations. Resulting from the collaboration between CHANEL Haute Couture and the oeuvre of Xavier Veilhan, this project contributes to making the show a moment of pure aesthetic emotion, translating Haute Couture’s exclusivity and quest for perfection.
Light as air, a long black dress and matching bolero jacket are crafted in precious Chantilly lace and hand-painted with graphic white daisies. In airy layers of suspended volume, a flounce top in black houndstooth lace with cascading gemstone embroidery is worn over a matching flared mermaid skirt. The scooped neck hourglass jacket in blue cotton tweed mounted on tulle is worn over a matching jumpsuit for a fluid A-line silhouette.
Contrasting graphic shine and precious lace, a CHANEL skirt suit with a matching boxy jacket and apron skirt in metallic lamé tweed is worn over a sleeveless shirtdress in white lace with crystal buttons. The V-neck coat dress in windowpane check raspberry tweed is trimmed with cream cotton braid and pearl-encrusted buttons.