Nomadic and non-conformist: Felipe Oliveira Baptista debut collection at Kenzo



Kenzo: inspiring journeys for Fall/Winter 2020-2021 Women’s Fashion Week. The House of KENZO, through this initial collection, celebrates the wanderers of life.


The first Fall-Winter 2020 Collection by Felipe Oliveira Baptista for the House of KENZO.

A journey figures at the heart of Kenzo is, that taken by the Maison’s founder Kenzo Takada, who left his native Japan on a ship headed for France. He knew nothing of Paris and spoke no French, but was ineluctably drawn to the dream of Haute Couture and its epicenter, the City of Light.

These dreams and memories of travels inspired Felipe Oliveira Baptista for his debut collection as the new Creative Director of Kenzo.

The tubular structure of the set for the Fall/Winter 2020-2021 echoed this inspiration, designed as a modular and mobile object that can be re-used for future events.

This nomadic spirit informed the pieces in the new 2020 collection, with reversible coats that go from monochrome to printed or down jackets that become sleeping bags. Superposed materials add to the energy of slender silhouettes and the amplitude of cuts.

“Painting-dresses”are inspired by Lisbon-born painter Júlio Pomar, featuring tiger motifs from a series of works done by the painter in the 1980s, echoing the iconic Kenzo motif. This inaugural collection by Felipe Oliveira Baptista is an enticing invitation to discovery and journeys.


“A mobile wardrobe that heralds urban elegance and metamorphosis, transforming itself with fluency. Reversible coats that go from monochrome to printed. Parkas that spread out like wings. Down jackets that become sleeping bags. Dresses as light as cocoons that expand with their armature of zippers. Flowing alongside each step, they follow in fluid pace, as if animated by a movement of their own,” commented Kenzo in a statement.

The colours come from nature, at times illuminated by camouflage prints that are in fact a trompe-l’oeil of roses.

This organic palette composes a unique painting at each glance, like colours as passers-by, or a garment that transforms into a canvas of a giant tiger head. These are “painting-dresses”, taken from the works of neo-realist artist Julio Pomar (1926-2018). A Lisbon painter who lived in Paris for a long time and considered one of the greatest figures of Portuguese XXth century art.”