Made in Fendi: What is The Corporate Artisan at a Fendi Factory

Fendi presents men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection in “FENDI Factory” setting in Florence, Italy. Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, presented her elegantly utilitarian Spring/Summer 2024 Men’s collection at the innovative new FENDI Factory in the Tuscan hills. Fendi, the renowned fashion house, unveiled its highly anticipated Spring/Summer 2024 Men’s collection in a … Read more

Gucci bids farewell to fashion week as brand goes seasonless

Italian label cuts shows from five to two each year and declares fashion calendar obsolete

Boss introduces vegan suit and first jewelry collection

    BOSS Menswear introduces the vegan suit, approved by PETA Deutschland. The design, available in three colors, is made in Germany from pure, certified organic European-grown linen. After talks with PETA Germany, fashion house HUGO BOSS has launched its first completely animal-free men’s suit, certified with the “PETA-Approved Vegan” logo, as part of its … Read more

New York Fashion Week: Marc Jacobs digs into his archive for Spring Summer 2018

Models walked to the sounds of silence at the Marc Jacobs show during New York Fashion Week.

Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2018-

Fantasy twisted into reality in a collection about reimagining seasons past. Marc Jacobs presented an eclectic and boldly colorful collection with flowing, supple cuts. A mélange of nylons mixed with silk and synthetic satins, jerseys and twills in knotted and draped turbans, sarouel track pants and oversize sweaters. Fringes, jewels and pompons embellished sportswear looks with Eastern inspirations.

“”During the last few months while friends vacations, we took a holiday in our heads and went somewhere – twisting fantasy into reality through exaggerated, decadent and exotic sportswear silhouettes. This collection is the reimagining of seasons past somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City,” explained Marc Jacobs.

“Those watching closely could recognize some of the Studio 54 babes of Spring 2012, the wintry angels of Fall 2014, and the Jamiroquai girls of Fall 2012. There was an added workwear element and the occasional suiting look for good measure,” commented vogue.

“Marc Jacobs’s muses Kate Moss and Sofia Coppola inspired his decision to outfit the models with turbans. Moss famously wore a golden one to the 2012 Met Gala, and Coppola was recently photographed in an elegant red option,” added vogue.

Marc Jacobs looks back on his adolescence, on his love affair with fashion, and his first kiss with a girl via W magazine. Watch the full video: mjin.tl/WMAGMarc Jacobs Spring Summer 2018 Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Runway — with Jamie Bochert at Park Avenue Armory Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2018-gallery Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Runway Show — with Aiden Curtiss Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Runway Show — with Bella Hadid at Park Avenue Armory. Marc Jacobs about style Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2018-look- Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2018-look-gallery Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Runway Show — with Edie Campbell Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Runway Show — with Kaia Gerber at Park Avenue Armory Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2018-looks

 

Kei’s Art of Conceptualising Emotions as Haute Fashion

by Philippe Mihailovich

The recent Spring / Summer Haute Couture fashion week in Paris was once again surprised by what was being shown in Paris’ secretive avant –garde Some/Things magazine showroom space.

kei kagami shoes photos -kei kagami retrospective shoe exhibition at Selfridges
Kei Kagami Retrospective Shoe Exhibition at Selfridges; Photos by Andy Tommo .

 

Strange architectural handmade shoes of lead and leather with protruding cones and wings that could be from another planet of the future or the past combined are discreetly exhibited to compliment the equally unusual haute fashion creations. One cannot quite use the classical term ‘haute couture’ for these unusual pieces made from an eclectic mix of wonderful fabrics and improbable materials. Functional, playful and conceptual whilst also being both timeless and fashionable. Some dresses are able to transform from a space creature outfit to that of a business power-woman at a zip.

The talent behind these innovations is, of course, London-based Japanese designer-artist-architect Kei Kagami. After having completed his degree in architecture and working for Japan’s iconic architect, Kenzo Tange, Kei found himself wanting to fashion space around the body. He enrolled at Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College, then London’s Central St Martins where he pipped Alexandra McQueen to the top spot. After a few years under John Galliano, Kei began his own creative label, more for creative liberty than for commerce. As such he has had his works displayed in some of the leading museums and galleries across the world including:

National museum of Scotland (work purchased for the permanent collection), Kunst Haus Wien museum “shoeting stars” (Austria), Kunsthal Rotterdam museum ” S.H.O.E.S ” (Holland ), Rooms / retrospective shoe exhibition (Tokyo), Arnhem mode biennale (Holland), Grassi museum Leipzig (Germany), Netherlands leather shoe museum / retrospective shoe exhibition (Holland), FIT museum / shoe obsession (New York) and the list goes on and on, yet he remains humble and philosophical – see video interview.

kei kagami conceptual pieces - industrial revolution 2003 , photo by andy tommo-
Kei Kagami Conceptual Pieces – “Industrial revolution”, 2003/ Photos by Andy Tommo.
kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges Photos by Andy Tommo
Kei Kagami Retrospective at Selfridges. Photos by Andy Tommo.

It is very rare in our times to come across a designer who is more interested in the creative process than celebrity. Perhaps he has been fortunate enough to have been commissioned by YKK (a world leader in fastening products) to make a collection of zip-inspired pieces. The results of this collaboration were outstanding, no one had seen anything quite like it before. YKK then began sponsoring Kei Kagami’s catwalk shows for London Fashion Week and Milan. He has since designed the first YKK showroom in London, and through YKK, Kei has become actively involved in graduate competitions (for example ITS#ACCESSORIES) and educational initiatives with some of the most prestigious colleges on the planet. (RCA, Hogeschool Antwepren, Shenkar College & Esmod Paris).

The wonderful thing about Paris is that it is here where respect is earned for creativity rather than turnover. The French are always on the lookout for the next visionary not the next rag trade millionaire. In Paris we make a distinction between a ‘creator’ and a ‘designer’ or ‘stylist’. Kei Kagami has already made his lasting contribution to the advancement of design creation. Let’s hope that the French will finally give him the recognition he deserves.

kei kagami - part one GIFT collaboration with Karlmond Tang , 2016
Kei Kagami – “Part one GIFT”, collaboration with Karlmond Tang , 2016.
kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges Photos by Andy Tommo
KEI Kagami anatomy 2 - 2016 photo by Karlmond Tang
Kei Kagami Anatomy 2, 2016; photo by Karlmond Tang
kei kagami conceptual pieces - water dress at Arnhem mode biennale 2009, photo by Ernst Moritz
kei kagami conceptual pieces – water dress at Arnhem mode biennale 2009, photo by Ernst Moritz
kei kagami conceptual pieces - zip dress 2 2011 -Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces – Zip Dress 2 2011;Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces - anatomy 2007 photo by Tigi International
Kei Kagami conceptual pieces. Anatomy 2007 Photo by Tigi International
kei kagami conceptual pieces- correction 2005 , 2 photo by andy tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces- correction 2005 , 2 photo by andy tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces - water dress at Arnhem mode biennale 2009
kei kagami conceptual pieces -“water dress” at Arnhem Mode Biennale 2009
kei kagami conceptual pieces- photo by andy tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces- photo by andy tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces -U-boat at some things , 2011
kei kagami conceptual pieces -U-boat at some things , 2011
kei kagami conceptual pieces - industrial revolution 2003 , photo by andy tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces – industrial revolution 2003 , photo by andy tommo
kei kagami conceptual pieces -water cress skirt 2007 Spring Summer
kei kagami conceptual pieces -water cress skirt, Spring / Summer 2007
kei kagami conceptual pieces-part one GIFT collaboration with Karlmond Tang , 2016
kei kagami conceptual pieces-part one GIFT collaboration with Karlmond Tang , 2016
kei kagami conceptual pieces
kei kagami conceptual pieces
kei kagami shoes photos - kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges; Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami shoes photos - kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges- Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges- Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami shoes photos -kei kagami retrospective shoe exhibition at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo-
kei kagami retrospective shoe exhibition at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami shoes photos -kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo
kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo

kei kagami conceptual pieces - Autumn Winter 2007- 2008 kei kagami conceptual pieces - industrial revolution 2003 - photos by andy tommo kei kagami conceptual pieces - Spring Summer 2007 kei kagami conceptual pieces - photos kei kagami shoes photos -kei kagami retrospective Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo- kei kagami shoes photos -kei kagami retrospective shoe exhibition at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo kei kagami shoes photos -kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges- Photos by Andy Tommo kei kagami shoes photos - kei kagami retrospective Selfridges Photos by Andy Tommo

Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton Men’s Artistic Director revisits Africa

Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2017 men’s collection: an Africa of vivid animal prints and textiles. Africa, as the home of modern civilisation, is the inspiration for Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2017 men’s collection. For the collection, Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Artistic Director Kim Jones conjures an Africa of vivid animal prints and textiles cut to the measure of … Read more