How Spanish luxury brand is transforming distressed objects into unique pieces

Loewe brings new life to objects with Weave, Restore, Renew project. Spanish luxury brand Loewe is presenting Weave, Restore, Renew at the Salone del Mobile in Milan until June 12. This collaboration with artisans specialized in traditional weaving showcases their artistic sensibilities and expertise, transforming distressed objects into unique pieces. Participating in the Salone del … Read more

Discover Venice the #HomoFaberWay: A self-guided tour of Venice’s hidden crafts workshops

  Organised by the Michelangelo Foundation, 2022 Homo Faber event showcases fine contemporary, traditional and rare craftsmanship and its link to the world of creativity and design, to promote a more human, inclusive and sustainable future. The 2nd edition of this unprecedented international cultural event in Venice will celebrate fine craftsmanship’s “living treasures” through 15 … Read more

Hand in Hand: Twenty selected Italian ateliers present unique interpretations of the Fendi Baguette

 

Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi

Each bag is unique, because the imperfections inherent to handmade craftsmanship are what express intrinsic beauty.

Fendi celebrates Italy’s artisanal craftsmanship with ambitious “Hand in Hand” project.

The talented artisans too often ply their craft without sufficient recognition. Italian luxury house Fendi invited 20 ateliers representing the Italy’s 20 regions to interpret the iconic Baguette bag – designed in 1997 by Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director for Accessories and Men’s collections. The designer plans to expand this unprecedented project to pay tribute to the best artisans around the world.

Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi

Twenty regions, twenty interpretations of the Baguette bag.

Fendi‘s “Hand in Hand” project was launched with twenty selected ateliers in Italy, which applied their unique talents to transform the iconic bag into a jewel of craft workmanship. Each Fendi Baguette bag is stamped with the atelier’s name and the gold “Fendi Hand in Hand” logo, created specially for the occasion.

“Fashion often focuses on the designer, and I think it’s time that we celebrate the community of artisans behind these amazing creations,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi.

The first creation was presented in Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 runway show, a collaboration between Fendi artisans and craftspeople at the Florentine atelier Peroni in Tuscany. In the skilled hands of Peroni artisans, the Baguette is fashioned from a single seamless piece of molded vegetal-tanned leather with no stitches from bag to buckle, usingan impressive traditional technique known as cuoio artistico fiorentino. The different Italian regions each contributedistinctive savoir-faire while sharing a passion for traditional craftsmanship and skillful handmade creations.

Rich floral brocade inspired by Venice’s glorious history is woven on authentic Jacquard looms. Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi

In Veneto, “Hand in Hand” spotlights time-honored craft. Working with Venetian artisans at Bevilacqua, which has been making jacquard for five centuries, Fendi goes back in time. The fabric is woven by hand on 18th century wooden looms by artisans who meticulously create a rich floral brocade motif, producing just a few centimeters per day. An interlaced satin strap and a buckle sculpted in jasper with lizard details further elevate the jacquard. The absolutely breathtaking result is an ode to patient talent, to experience, and to the historic beauty of Venice.

Women artisans are honored in the Umbrian town of Perugia at the family-owned business Giuditta Brozzeti. Antique looms from the 19th century reproduce designs inspired by the bestiary of Medieval history. For its vision of the Baguette, the atelier featured a horse, a peacock, a unicorn and a dove in a bright royal blue and white color scheme. The luxurious simplicity harbors the secrets of generations of weavers of authentic textiles.

Nestled in the heart of Rome, cradle of emperors and Fendi’s native city, is the atelier-boutique of master jeweler Massimo Maria Melis. The history of ancient Rome meets the contemporary elegance of the couture house to create a leather Baguette decorated with original bronze coins portraying Roman emperors. The piece honors not the political past but ancestral Roman goldsmith techniques restored to their original glory.

The Abruzzo region, represented by artisan Simona Iannini, showcases the delicate force of the tombolo aquilano lacework technique. Continuous threads of linen are interlaced and never cut or sewn, an almost magical precision art passed on through generations since the 15th century. Recreating the shape of the Baguette using this centuries-old technique took 100 hours of work. The lace is starched and then becomes rigid after being left to dry on a wooden form for three days.

Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi
Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi
Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi
Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi
Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi
Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi
Fendi Hand in Hand Project 2020; @Fendi

Interior styles that are expected to reign in 2019. Survey

  Biggest Style Trends for 2019. 1stdibs Survey. When sourcing furniture for client projects, the majority (61%) of designers make their purchases online. Most (54%) specify art for their projects, and close to half (45%) of the art selected is sourced online, revealed second annual Interior Designer Trends Survey by 1stdibs. The survey, commissioned by … Read more

Galliano’s first couture menswear show for Margiela

The Maison Margiela ‘Artisanal’ Men’s Collection designed by John Galliano was shown at the House’s Parisian headquarters as part of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.

Reassessing the future of dressmaking in the men’s wardrobe, Maison Margiela presented its first full Artisanal menswear collection. The show signifies an unrestricted foray onto the territory of haute couture for men in a conversation with a new masculinity in motion.

Opening the doors to the deft skills of creative director John Galliano and the 163 rue Saint-Maur ateliers, the presentation was staged as the house works in view. The collection is exclusively bespoke and will be included in a co-ed Spring – Summer 2019 Défilé show in September.

maison margiela menswear spring summer 2019 - Double-breasted cape-cut jacket in tweed with a velvet top collar
Double-breasted cape-cut jacket in tweed with a velvet top collar, worn over a nude chiffon top with embroidery and an off-white vinyl jean. Yellow gloves and decortiqué white patent leather Santiago boots. image source: maison margiela

Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Galliano’s first couture menswear show for Margiela” was written by Scarlett Conlon in Paris, for theguardian.com on Friday 22nd June 2018 15.43 UTC

Paris Fashion Week has become a week of firsts. Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton yesterday, Kim Jones at Dior Homme tomorrow and, in the middle of them, John Galliano’s first couture menswear show for Maison Margiela.

Galliano doesn’t call it couture – speaking in a new Margiela podcast, released as the show started, he calls it “artisanal”. “We are trying to define what artisanal means for us,” he said. “It’s rooted in craftsmanship and is the highest form of dressmaking, but for men. Its backbone is in tailoring, but we are trying to further explore the bias cut.”

A model wearing a blazer walks the catwalk.
A model wearing a blazer walks the catwalk. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

The bias cut has been central to Galliano’s womenswear aesthetic since the mid-1980s and is something he has used in former roles at Givenchy, Christian Dior and his own-name label. It is not, however, often found in menswear. For those who don’t know what a bias cut is, Galliano went on to explain on the podcast. “If you had a napkin at home and you hold it like a square, and you pull the left and right sides simultaneously, that’s what is called straight of grain. Now turn that around to a diamond and pull the opposite corners – when you pull you will see what happens. There’s a natural elasticity in the fabric and that’s when you hit the true bias.”

For this spring/summer 2019 collection, which was staged at Margiela’s atelier in Paris, Galliano gave himself the task of cutting the bias not from his usual silk-backed crepe, like he would for women, but from English tweeds more in line with Savile Row suiting. They came in sculpted blazers, sweeping coats and satin suits.

“It’s a never-ending learning process with the bias, because each fabric reacts differently … a dialogue develops and you have to be attentive because it’s alive,” he said. “It teaches you, you can’t read about it from a book … you are not forcing it to do anything, it tells you what to do.”

Kimono jackets and acidic vinyl trousers.
A kimono jacket and acidic vinyl trousers. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

Embroidered kimono jackets, long red plastic macs, bejewelled corsets and acidic vinyl trousers were noteworthy pieces from the rest of the collection, as was the cowboy boot, which was present in his collections for autumn/winter 2018 too.

A model wears a bejewelled corset.
A model wears a bejewelled corset. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

The styling was significant. Jackets were nonchalantly thrown over the models’ shoulders to evoke “that spine-tingling moment of an early morning shrug after an after-party, where you don’t actually put the sleeves through your coat, you just put the coat on your shoulders”, said Galliano. Shoulder pads – which were used to give illusions of a cape and, in turn, heroism – evoked a confidence inspired by Humphrey Bogart. “You imagine those early pictures of [him] with the cigarette and with the coat on the shoulders … it’s an attitude, and I have tried to express that through a coat so that we can all have that attitude.”

Galliano also revealed on that podcast that he works with his year-long student placements to put the looks together. “Their view of the world is completely different,” he said. “Of course, one understands it, but you can’t put yourself in those shoes, can you? You can only be alive around these people. As much as they are obsessed with what I do, I am obsessed with what they are thinking, so it’s an ongoing exchange.”

The return of the cowboy boot.
The return of the cowboy boot. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

Galliano intended to address gender stereotypes with this collection, to show that cutting skills could help “discover a new sensuality, a new sexuality”. He also revealed that he intended to show his womenswear and menswear collections together as of October. The 34 looks shown today were versions of ready-to-wear pieces that will be shown in three months’ time.

Following his sacking from Dior in 2011 following an alleged antisemitic rant, there has been a lot of focus on Galliano’srehabilitation. Since his appointment at Margiela he has been welcomed back into the industry by many. His recent work for the brand has been well received too; in his first year in the job, revenues increased by 30%.

Combining womenswear and menswear, Galliano explaining himself on the podcast and opening the doors to the brand’s atelier (so attendees could see the in-house designers working away as they entered), it all signalled an evolution for the notoriously anonymous brand and very private designer; its deconstructed aesthetic code now infiltrates its processes too.

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Graff Floral: Haute horology is combined with artisanal savoir-faire

Haute horology is combined with artisanal savoir-faire to create a feminine timepiece featuring a whirling sequence of exquisite blooms. This romantic and feminine watch design presented at Baselworld 2018 combines all of the world’s most complex métiers d’art techniques: enamel painting, micro-painting and extraordinarily intricate diamond setting. Available in four distinct colourways, pink, blue, purple … Read more