The definitive guide to spring/summer 2018 fashion – a photo essay

chanel spring summer 2018 show


Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “The definitive guide to spring/summer 2018 fashion – a photo essay” was written by Guardian fashion and Matt Fidler, for theguardian.com on Thursday 5th October 2017 17.01 UTC

It started in New York and ended in Paris. There were Burberry checks, nipple pasties and Elton John-inspired tracksuits. Stars were born and supermodels were reunited. We lost industry legends and the big beasts of fashion signed charters pledging to protect models’ health.

Outlandish poses, and attention-grabbing outfits drew scrums of street-style photographers to the entrance of every venue. Canapes were nibbled. Green juice, matcha tea and champagne were drunk, as style journalists, bloggers and buyers travelled to view the world’s top fashion collections and help decide what we will be wearing in six months’ time. Here are the highlights from the past few weeks.

A model walks the runway for the Calvin Klein Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week
A model on the Calvin Klein catwalk in New York. Photograph: Angela Weiss/AFP/Getty Images

New York

In his second collection for Calvin Klein, Raf Simons opened New York fashion week with a jolt, presenting a terrifying collection inspired by horror films. On the front row, Brooke Shields chatted to Paris Jackson; Moonlight’s Mahershala Ali chatted to Lupita Nyong’o. On the catwalk, shift dresses covered in prints from Andy Warhol’s Death and Disaster series and shoes inspired by Jason Vorhees’s hockey mask in Friday the 13th were particular highlights. Elsewhere in New York, Rihanna cemented her status as a celebrity style supermogul, presenting a surf-inspired collection for Fenty x Puma just days after she launched her own Fenty beauty range.

Calvin Klein runway SS18
Samantha Elsworth on the Calvin Klein catwalk SS18.
Calvin Klein runway SS18
Kaia Gerber on the Calvin Klein catwalk SS18.
  • Samantha Elsworth and Kaia Gerber walk for Calvin Klein
Designers Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier at the Calvin Klein Collection fashion show
Designers Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier at the Calvin Klein collection show. Photograph: Angela Weiss/AFP/Getty Images
  • Designers Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier accept the applause
Ana Wintour, Lupita Nyong’o chatting to Mahershala Ali and Jake Gyllenhaal on the front row
Ana Wintour, Lupita Nyong’o chatting to Mahershala Ali, Jake Gyllenhaal on the front row during New York fashion week. Photograph: Angela Weiss/AFP/Getty Images
Paris Jackson and Brooke Shields attend the Calvin Klein Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week
Paris Jackson and Brooke Shields attend the Calvin Klein show during New York fashion week. Photograph: Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images
  • Front row: Ana Wintour and Lupita Nyong’o chatting to Mahershala Ali; Paris Jackson and Brooke Shields
Singer and designer Rihanna acknowledges guests during her Fenty for Puma collection
Singer and designer Rihanna acknowledges guests during her Fenty for Puma collection Photograph: Brendan Mcdermid/Reuters
  • Rihanna did a lap on the back of a motorbike at the end of her show. Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid took part in Alexander Wang’s show on the New York city streets
Wangover - Kendall Jenner at Alexander Wang
‘Wangover’ … Kendall Jenner at Alexander Wang. Photograph: Lovekin/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
Bella Hadid on the outdoor urban catwalk for Alexander Wang
Bella Hadid on the outdoor catwalk at Alexander Wang. Photograph: Farrell/BFA/Rex/Shutterstock
Models walk the runway during the Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 2018
Models walk the catwalk during the Victoria Beckham spring/summer 2018 show. Photograph: Mary Altaffer/AP

Victoria Beckham showed glittery shoes and pastels in a collection (above and below) which, she said, made a case that “delicacy can mean strength”. Beckhams Brooklyn and David, who sat next to new British Vogue editor Edward Enninful in the front row, seemed to be quite into it.

Models walk the runway for the Victoria Beckham
Models walk the catwalk for the Victoria Beckham. Photograph: Eduardo Munoz Alvarez/AFP/Getty Images
Edward Enninful, David Beckham and Brooklyn Beckham in the front row
Edward Enninful, David Beckham and Brooklyn Beckham in the front row. Photograph: Matt Baron/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Husband David and son Brooklyn were out in support on the front row with Vogue editor Edward Enninful
Models on the catwalk Ralph Lauren show
Models on the catwalk at the Ralph Lauren show. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
Models display creations from the Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2018 show at London Fashion Week
Models display creations from the Christopher Kane spring/summer 2018 show at London fashion week. Photograph: Mary Turner/Reuters

London

Forget high-falutin muses: London’s best designers were inspired by the fluffy dusters and marigold gloves of suburban life, with Christopher Kane’s standout show presenting the commuter-belt look with a hint of kink. See also Anya Hindmarch, whose kebab-box bag was takeaway accessory of the week. For the first time in years, Burberry put its famous check prints on the catwalk. Models such as Adwoa Aboah and Kaia Gerber – the most in-demand new face of the season, who happens to be Cindy Crawford’s daughter – wore peaked caps and checked blouson jackets with stupendous glittering earrings. Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Glenda Jackson were in the audience.

Christopher Kane - Runway
Suburban chic at Christopher Kane. Photograph: Estrop/WireImage
Doily-like ruffles at the Christopher Kane show.
Doily-like ruffles at the Christopher Kane show. Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Models on the Christopher Kane catwalk (and main pic above)
Models in macs at the Burberry show in Clerkenwell.
Models in macs at the Burberry show in Clerkenwell. Photograph: Vianney Le Caer/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Burberry’s show was held in Clerkenwell, featuring a return of the brand’s classic check pattern
Checks and caps and glares at Burberry.
Checks and caps and glares at Burberry.
Adwoa Aboah in a Burberry cap on the catwalk.
Adwoa Aboah in a Burberry cap on the catwalk. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
Giant accessories backstage at the Burberry show.
Giant accessories backstage at the Burberry show.

Design duo Marques Almeida presented their show outside under the chilly, graffitied arches of Brick Lane. It was a proper hoedown, with Dolly Parton on the soundtrack and metal-capped boots and cow prints on the clothes.

Marques Almeida show under the arches at Brick Lane
Marques Almeida show under the arches at Brick Lane Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/REX/Shutterstock
  • The Marques Almeida show

Darling of the fashion pack, Molly Goddard gave her show a raucous party feel, which saw models – including Edie Campbell and Erin O’Connor – dancing over catwalk obstacles, while sipping champagne and smoking fags (electronic) in sequinned, puffball bodices and gowns.

Edie Campbell and Erin O’Connor Backstage at Molly Goddard
Edie Campbell and Erin O’Connor Backstage at Molly Goddard Photograph: @ediebcampbell
A model poses on the Molly Goddard catwalk.
A model poses on the Molly Goddard catwalk. Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Edie Campbell and Erin O’Connor backstage at Molly Goddard; a model strikes a pose on the Molly Goddard catwalk
Models walk the runway at the Simone Rocha
The overview of Simone Rocha’s show. Photograph: John Phillips/BPC
  • All in white for the final lap at Simone Rocha

Delicate frills, silk, satin and lace – Simone Rocha’s show was a lesson in classic femininity.

Topshop played host to an especially starry model lineup, including Adwoa Aboah, Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, Hailey Baldwin, and Arizona Muse. For the final walk, models changed into denim and T-shirts, reminding us of Topshop’s relaxed, casual side.

British model Jourdan Dunn presents a creation by Topshop
Model Jourdan Dunn on the Topshop catwalk. Photograph: Will Oliver/EPA
  • Model Jourdan Dunn wears a sheer electric blue dress on the Topshop catwalk in London’s Chinatown

But the catwalks of London were not all about chip-shop charm and suburbia-chic: two of America’s biggest name designers crossed the Atlantic to show their wares. Giorgio Armani had his first show in a decade in the city in which, he says, you can sense the creative turmoil. He promises that’s a compliment. And Tommy Hilfiger – the ultimate stars-and-stripes designer – was joined by Gigi Hadid at the Roundhouse for his first show in the capital for more than two decades.

Giorgio Armani takes to the stage after the fashion house Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani takes to the stage after the fashion house Emporio Armani Photograph: Niklas Halle’N/AFP/Getty Images
Tommy Hilfiger and Gigi Hadid on the catwalk
Tommy Hilfiger and Gigi Hadid on the catwalk Photograph: Gourley/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Giorgio and his models; Tommy and Gigi Hadid
Models on the catwalk Erdem show
Models on the catwalk Erdem show Photograph: WWD/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Models in organza gowns on the Erdem catwalk
A model walks the runway at the Gucci show
A model walks the runway at the Gucci show. Photograph: Pietro D’aprano/Getty Images

Milan

If New York is all about sophistication and London all about creativity, Milan is the seat of glamour. At Gucci that took on a distinctly glam-rock edge, with creative director and self-titled “wizard” Alessandro Michele bewitching showgoers with clothes inspired by Elton John’s stage outfits. Think high-waisted jumpsuits and jackets bolstered by power shoulders, as well as the usual Michele trademarks of geek-chic glasses, pearls and rainbow stripes. And check blazers with everything.

Gucci rhinestones and pearls
Rhinestones and pearls Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
Pastel green all in one - belt comes free
Pastel green all in one – belt comes free Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
A bag at the Gucci show
A bag at the Gucci show Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
A bag at the Gucci show
A bag at the Gucci show Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Rhinestones and pearls, check and logos at Gucci

At the Versace show, Donatella paid tribute to her late brother Gianni by lauding his greatest legacy – the supermodel. Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni – the goddesses of 90s fashion – took to the catwalk soundtracked by George Michael’s Freedom. Fashion moments rarely come so divine.

Versace Spring Summer 1991 and 2018
  • Versace spring/summer 1991 and 2018

Kaia Gerber wore a jumpsuit almost identical to one worn by Christy Turlington for the 1991 spring/summer collection.

Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Donatella Versace walk the runway at the Versace show
Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Donatella Versace walk the runway at the Versace show Photograph: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
  • Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Donatella Versace walk the runway at the Versace show

At Prada there was a combative spirit in the air, with pointy flat shoes and sharp-collared boxy shirts. The show, very much about the female gaze, was soundtracked by female voices from Nina Simone and Suzanne Vega to Lana Del Rey and the space was decorated with cartoons of female characters. This was Prada’s feminist manifesto.

Models on the catwalk Prada show
Models on the catwalk Prada show Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Models on the Prada catwalk
Backstage at Moschino
Backstage at Moschino
  • Big name-tags for models backstage at Moschino
Backstage at Moschino
That floral dress backstage at Jeremy Scott’s Moschino
A model and bag at the Fendi show
A model and bag at the Fendi show Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
  • That floral dress backstage at Jeremy Scott’s Moschino, and details at Fendi
Model on the catwalk Saint Laurent show, Runway
Model on the catwalk Saint Laurent show, Runway Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/REX/Shutterstock

Paris

Just in case the fashion pack was feeling un petit peu fatigué by the time Paris rolled around, designers went big on sparkles and spectacle. The Saint Laurent show was an epic, taking place on an outdoor catwalk backdropped by a twinkling Eiffel Tower and shrouded in dry ice. Sensuality was key, with creative director Anthony Vaccarello showcasing black-sequinned dresses, “shining like the asphalt after the rain”.

For her first show for Givenchy – the most high-profile debut of this Paris fashion week – Clare Waight Keller brought a little of the breezy je ne sais quoi from her days at the Chloé helm to a catwalk more used to rottweiler motifs. But whimsy was offset by sharp tailoring, as Cate Blanchett and Julianne Moore watched from the front row.

A model walks the runway at the Givenchy show
A model walks the catwalk at the Givenchy show Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images
  • A model walks the catwalk at the Givenchy show

Chloé did what Chloé does best: the kind of Gallic chic that can be easily packaged and marketed around the world. New creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi brought some edge to the house’s traditional floaty lines, as well as a new silhouette. But the label’s signature horse motif galloped back on to velvet suits and jumpsuits.

Chloé show, backstage.
Chloé show, backstage. Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
Handbag with chain strap detail at Chloé
Handbag with chain strap detail at Chloé. Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images
Blue buckled shoe detail on the Chloé runway
Yeehaa … blue buckled shoe detail on the Chloé catwalk, where the cowboy boot trend went full throttle. Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images
  • Floaty hem detail and men’s tailoring shown together at Chloé; bag and boot detail

Waterfalls were chased at a spectacular Chanel show – six, each 10 metres high – so models had plenty of practical use for the plastic-heavy looks that are very much of the season.

Models, wide shot, walk the runway during the finale of the Chanel Paris show
Models walk the runway during the finale of the Chanel Paris show Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty Images
  • Block heels, tweeds and two-piece suits
A model walks the runway during the Chanel show
A model walks the runway during the Chanel show Photograph: Dominique Charriau/WireImage
A model walks the runway during the Chanel show
A model walks the runway during the Chanel show Photograph: Dominique Charriau/WireImage
  • The show was all about Gabrielle Chanel, not Coco, who represents the younger, more free-spirited era of the designer’s life. This was rebellion, Chanel style
Models walk the runway during the Comme Des Garçons show as part of the Paris fashion week
Models walk the runway during the Comme Des Garçons show as part of the Paris fashion week Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images
  • Part fashion, part art … dresses were decorated with wide-eyed manga characters at the Comme des Garçons show

Proof that you can have your cake and eat it: at Stella McCartney, eco-credentials went hand in hand with style.

Stella McCartney Paris shos
Stella McCartney Paris show Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images
  • Models on the catwalk during the Stella McCartney show as part of the Paris fashion week Womenswear spring/summer 2018

There were shoe-boots, pictorial prints and the usual extreme layering on display at Balenciaga. The final act of defiance came in the form of Crocs with 10cm-high platforms. The ugly shoe finally went haute.

Model on the catwalk Balenciaga
Model on the catwalk Balenciaga Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

Cocktails at five. That was the inspiration behind Dries Van Noten’s mid-length dresses in warm tones of ochre and gold, finished with diamante. A cheering, luxurious addition to the Paris shows.

Models in serious boots and cheerful dresses at Dries Van Noten.
Models in serious boots and cheerful dresses at Dries Van Noten. Photograph: Alain Jocard/AFP/Getty Images
  • The outspoken rising star, Selena Forrest, on the Céline catwalk (below)
Selena Forrest walks for Céline.
Selena Forrest walks for Céline. Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images

Checks, socks and headbands, preppy and leftfield touches were all to play for at Miu Miu. The show went big on the colour combination of the season: mint with orange. Just like a summer sundae.

Emily Ratajkowski and Clémence Poésy watch model walk at Miu Miu
Emily Ratajkowski and Clémence Poésy watch the Miu Miu show. Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
Dakota Fanning and Elle Fanning watch model walk at Miu Miu
Dakota and Elle Fanning at Miu Miu Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Socks and sandals and the Fanning sisters at Miu Miu
Runway show of French designer Nicolas Ghesquiere for Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquiere’s collection for for Louis Vuitton. Photograph: Christophe Petit Tesson/EPA
  • Louis Vuitton took place in the medieval foundations of the Louvre Palace in the basement of the Louvre museum. Billowing sleeves and embroidered waistcoats that laced up at the back were inspired by the style of the 18th-century French aristocracy
Ruth Negga, Michelle Williams, Julianne Moore and Cate Blanchett attend the Louis Vuitton show
Ruth Negga, Michelle Williams, Julianne Moore and Cate Blanchett were the starry front row at Louis Vuitton show Photograph: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
  • Ruth Negga, Michelle Williams, Julianne Moore and Cate Blanchett formed part of the starry front row at Louis Vuitton show

From Céline’s standout collection of multitextured, oversized fluidity to Chanel’s take on old (tweed) meets new (transparent macs), and from Gucci’s glam rock colour-fest to Burberry’s return to its chequered past, the spring/summer 2018 fashion weeks were a feast for the senses. Expect to be wearing plastic macs and pastels next spring.

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