CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture Unleashed A Stylised Bestiary

Larger-than-life, an imaginary bird created by the artist Xavier Veilhan alights in the rue Cambon, in Paris, revealing a first look at the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard and embodied by model Vivienne Rohner.

@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard and embodied by model Vivienne Rohner.

At the invitation of Virginie Viard, artist Xavier Veilhan meets the world of CHANEL Haute Couture once again, for the Spring-Summer 2023 show presented at the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris.

For this show, the artist presents a stylised bestiary, freely inspired by the universe of the French luxury House and his own.

From Gabrielle Chanel’s Parisian apartment in the rue Cambon to a dreamlike bestiary from the mind of the artist Xavier Veilhan, glimpses of the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard appear. The know-how of couture meets a fantastic and light-hearted imagination.

As if on a village square, the stage is set for a show. Created by artist Xavier Veilhan, eleven monumental animals made of wood, cardboard and paper reveal models one-by-one.

Top hat, bow tie, white gloves, laced boots, satin cape, pleated skirt, double-breasted jacket or with tails, tuxedo shirt, sequins, short shorts, petticoats: it is in the poetry of majorettes that Chanel Creative Director Virginie Viard draws the imagination of her Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection.

@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture
@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture

Inspired by the mythical animal sculptures inside Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon, in Paris, the Spring Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard reveals embroideries of exquisite lightness. Models emerge from inside wooden sculptures created by artist Xavier Veilhan.

@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture
@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture
@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture
@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture

f

In a premiere, CHANEL has entrusted a contemporary artist the staging of Haute Couture show

@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show

The visual universe of the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show.

Suspended, fresh, feminine. Between fantasy and reality, the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection designed by Virginie Viard expressed an ethereal lightness. Bright, joyful silhouettes float amidst geometric structures in a graphic setting created by Xavier Veilhan. A decor evoking equestrian curves and constructive lines contrasts with airy silhouettes, delicate embroideries and precious flowers.
In response to Virginie Viard’s invitation, artist Xavier Veilhan has created the visual universe for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show at the Grand Palais Éphémère.

For the first time ever, CHANEL has entrusted a contemporary artist to imagine the staging of a show. Part landscape, part garden and part open theatre stage, Xavier Veilhan’s project for CHANEL integrated both the catwalk and seating reserved for spectators. This functional layout conjures up images and notions dear to the artist: from the equestrian and canine paths to the architecture of a mini-golf course, from the principle of lightness (inflatable elements) to the use of simple and seemingly modest materials (natural plywood, floor mats, stage risers).

 

“We also find recurring elements of the artist’s vocabulary here, in particular the image of the horse (often present, filmed or represented in his shows), the oversized musical instruments by the Studio Venezia from the French Pavilion at the Venice Biennale (2017), as well as allusions to a modernity that began with the avantgarde of the 1920s. All references that intersect with the world of CHANEL and echo the creations of Mademoiselle Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard.” – Chanel.

For this project, Virginie Viard and Xavier Veilhan decided to work with the songwriter Sébastien Tellier – who has been close to the designer and the House of CHANEL for many years -, the photographer Ola Rindal, with whom Xavier Veilhan has signed a series of images, and the set designer Alexis Bertrand. Each of them has already been involved with exhibitions, performances and shows by the artist. Charlotte Casiraghi, the House ambassador and an accomplished horsewoman, is portrayed in a film that evokes an imaginary world linked to CHANEL. Sébastien Tellier, author-composer and friend of the the luxury brand, performed a series of new tracks specially composed for the occasion on oversized instruments, and the Cristal Baschet, a rare crystal organ from the Studio Venezia of the French Pavilion at the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017.

@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture

Charlotte Casiraghi, who opened the Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture show on horseback, presented a collarless CHANEL jacket with 3/4 sleeves, with jeweled buttons and rounded shoulders worn with matching flared trousers in lapis blue tweed woven with sequins and ribbons.

The soft and deliberately subdued lighting created a dreamlike atmosphere, emphasising the beauty of the models and the extreme delicacy of the Haute Couture creations. Resulting from the collaboration between CHANEL Haute Couture and the oeuvre of Xavier Veilhan, this project contributes to making the show a moment of pure aesthetic emotion, translating Haute Couture’s exclusivity and quest for perfection.

Light as air, a long black dress and matching bolero jacket are crafted in precious Chantilly lace and hand-painted with graphic white daisies. In airy layers of suspended volume, a flounce top in black houndstooth lace with cascading gemstone embroidery is worn over a matching flared mermaid skirt. The scooped neck hourglass jacket in blue cotton tweed mounted on tulle is worn over a matching jumpsuit for a fluid A-line silhouette.
Contrasting graphic shine and precious lace, a CHANEL skirt suit with a matching boxy jacket and apron skirt in metallic lamé tweed is worn over a sleeveless shirtdress in white lace with crystal buttons. The V-neck coat dress in windowpane check raspberry tweed is trimmed with cream cotton braid and pearl-encrusted buttons.

@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture
@CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture campaign

From the 18th century robe volante to Comme des Garçons: this museum is an open course for history of fashion

  One after its reopening in 2020, the Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la ville de Paris, will celebrate inaugurate during the autumn of 2021 in its new galleries ‘A History of Fashion. Collecting & exhibiting at the Palais Galliera’ which traces the history of the Palais Galliera and its fashion collections. Visitors … Read more

The wedding cortege: CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture

 

CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture; photos and film © Anton Corbijn

CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture Show – a family gathering with socially distanced guests.

Chanel transformed Grand Palais Paris into a country wedding in the South of France. A lighthearted and elegant spirit animated
the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection imagined by Virginie Viard.​ The film of the show was directed by photographer, filmmaker and graphic designer Anton Corbijn.

A joyous occasion calls for luminous colours — a lace ensemble with flower-embroidered cuffs opened the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture show. The movement of ruffles on a pink lace dress evokes the spirit of summer evening parties. The tweed trouser suit is king, alongside a dress in black silk chiffon revealing a play of transparency, accompanied by a little black organza dress swathed in sequin-embroidered polka dot tulle. The nonchalant allure is further inspired by a jacket embroidered with silver sequins and wide-cut tweed trousers.

CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture; photos © Anton Corbijn

The masculine-feminine spirit of a tweed trouser suit is emphasized with a crown of flowers. Beads and strass embroideries as always evoke the emblematic quilted motif of the Chanel House. The voluminous aqua silk tulle skirt is worn with an embroidered vest.

“The silhouettes might be simple—sweaters or sleeveless vests worn with high-waisted pants, skinny cardigan jackets and liquid satin shirts with full romantic ballet skirts—but the beauty is in the detail,” commented Vogue. “This is the haute couture, after all, and the sort of garments we may have become familiar with in our work-from-home lives have actually been encrusted with superb embroideries from the houses of Cécile Henri, Hurel, Montex, Emmanuelle Vernoux, and Lesage, or made from custom, hand-painted lace by Solstiss, or scattered with artificial blossoms by Lemarié,” added Vogue.

Riding side-saddle on a horse, ‘la mariée’ appeared in an ecru satin crêpe wedding dress embroidered by Lesage with rhinestone-and pearl butterflies.​

“Viard attempts to capture the familial spirit of Chanel with this collection. Her focus on oversized petticoats, ruffled boleros, and fitted vests aim to give the clothes a liberating feeling, as the pieces are perfect for dancing on a warm summer evening,” commented lofficielusa.com

CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture; photos and film © Anton Corbijn
CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture; photos and film © Anton Corbijn
CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture; photos and film © Anton Corbijn

 

 

Chanel’s Lagerfeld-inspired haute couture shows how luxury can thrive online

Virginie Viard’s strong designs in chic colours shine, despite digital showcase’s subdued vibe

Viard’s Chanel comes into sharper focus with tribute to Coco

Designer pivots collection away from Lagerfeld’s legacy to reconnect with spirit of founder