Gucci in subdued mood at first show since ‘blackface’ scandal

Label voices regret in Milan while death of Karl Lagerfeld adds to downbeat feel

Emporio Armani caters to the intrepid urban explorer

Veteran designer unveils ‘sporty but urban’ look at Milan autumn/winter show

Menswear evolves in new ways at Versace and Marni in Milan

Donatella Versace stressed men’s ‘greater freedom to express themselves’, while Francesco Risso celebrated ‘the new youth’