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The recent Spring / Summer Haute Couture fashion week in Paris was once again surprised by what was being shown in Paris’ secretive avant –garde Some/Things magazine showroom space.
Kei Kagami Retrospective Shoe Exhibition at Selfridges; Photos by Andy Tommo .
Strange architectural handmade shoes of lead and leather with protruding cones and wings that could be from another planet of the future or the past combined are discreetly exhibited to compliment the equally unusual haute fashion creations. One cannot quite use the classical term ‘haute couture’ for these unusual pieces made from an eclectic mix of wonderful fabrics and improbable materials. Functional, playful and conceptual whilst also being both timeless and fashionable. Some dresses are able to transform from a space creature outfit to that of a business power-woman at a zip.
The talent behind these innovations is, of course, London-based Japanese designer-artist-architect Kei Kagami. After having completed his degree in architecture and working for Japan’s iconic architect, Kenzo Tange, Kei found himself wanting to fashion space around the body. He enrolled at Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College, then London’s Central St Martins where he pipped Alexandra McQueen to the top spot. After a few years under John Galliano, Kei began his own creative label, more for creative liberty than for commerce. As such he has had his works displayed in some of the leading museums and galleries across the world including:
National museum of Scotland (work purchased for the permanent collection), Kunst Haus Wien museum “shoeting stars” (Austria), Kunsthal Rotterdam museum ” S.H.O.E.S ” (Holland ), Rooms / retrospective shoe exhibition (Tokyo), Arnhem mode biennale (Holland), Grassi museum Leipzig (Germany), Netherlands leather shoe museum / retrospective shoe exhibition (Holland), FIT museum / shoe obsession (New York) and the list goes on and on, yet he remains humble and philosophical – see video interview.
Kei Kagami Conceptual Pieces – “Industrial revolution”, 2003/ Photos by Andy Tommo.Kei Kagami Retrospective at Selfridges. Photos by Andy Tommo.
It is very rare in our times to come across a designer who is more interested in the creative process than celebrity. Perhaps he has been fortunate enough to have been commissioned by YKK (a world leader in fastening products) to make a collection of zip-inspired pieces. The results of this collaboration were outstanding, no one had seen anything quite like it before. YKK then began sponsoring Kei Kagami’s catwalk shows for London Fashion Week and Milan. He has since designed the first YKK showroom in London, and through YKK, Kei has become actively involved in graduate competitions (for example ITS#ACCESSORIES) and educational initiatives with some of the most prestigious colleges on the planet. (RCA, Hogeschool Antwepren, Shenkar College & Esmod Paris).
The wonderful thing about Paris is that it is here where respect is earned for creativity rather than turnover. The French are always on the lookout for the next visionary not the next rag trade millionaire. In Paris we make a distinction between a ‘creator’ and a ‘designer’ or ‘stylist’. Kei Kagami has already made his lasting contribution to the advancement of design creation. Let’s hope that the French will finally give him the recognition he deserves.
Kei Kagami – “Part one GIFT”, collaboration with Karlmond Tang , 2016.kei kagami retrospective at Selfridges Photos by Andy TommoKei Kagami Anatomy 2, 2016; photo by Karlmond Tangkei kagami conceptual pieces – water dress at Arnhem mode biennale 2009, photo by Ernst Moritzkei kagami conceptual pieces – Zip Dress 2 2011;Photos by Andy TommoKei Kagami conceptual pieces. Anatomy 2007 Photo by Tigi Internationalkei kagami conceptual pieces- correction 2005 , 2 photo by andy tommokei kagami conceptual pieces -“water dress” at Arnhem Mode Biennale 2009kei kagami conceptual pieces- photo by andy tommokei kagami conceptual pieces -U-boat at some things , 2011kei kagami conceptual pieces – industrial revolution 2003 , photo by andy tommokei kagami conceptual pieces -water cress skirt, Spring / Summer 2007kei kagami conceptual pieces-part one GIFT collaboration with Karlmond Tang , 2016kei kagami conceptual pieceskei kagami retrospective at Selfridges; Photos by Andy Tommokei kagami retrospective at Selfridges- Photos by Andy Tommokei kagami retrospective shoe exhibition at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommokei kagami retrospective at Selfridges-Photos by Andy Tommo
Audrey Kabla, author of the new book Marque & Luxe, is not the usual high-flyer that one usually encounters from the rank and file in the field. She got off to a good start whilst studying for her business degree by having a 6 month stint at Christian Dior Couture followed by an international marketing and sales assistant job at Hilton in Chicago , completed a Luxury MBA at the ESG in Paris and landed a job at Smartbox as a product development manager to create luxury gift boxes before joining Tellus watches as an International Sales and Marketing Manager. Before the year was out, she found herself in the position of International Brand Manager for the Timex Group and two years later as Head of the Luxury marketing & communication Master of Sup de Pub, a leading Paris business school that prepares students for the advertising world whilst simultaneously founding Epykomène, a ‘House of Luxury marketing & French know-how worldwide’.
The secret of her quick rise can perhaps be attributed mostly to her creation of what she calls, “the YUXA concept” which is primarily the application of yoga principles to brands. Let us keep in mind that the Ig® Nobel Prize * for Economics was recently awarded to a team of New Zealand scientists who investigated brand personality tests and proved that respondents can attach human characteristics to rocks in their paper “The Brand Personality of Rocks” (1)
Of course, to a scientist, a rock cannot possibly have a personality, let alone a bottle of shampoo or a fragrance, however one only needs to speak to jewellers and stone sculptors to see that they indeed try to understand a rock before cutting it into something. A perfumer certainly aims to create a brand with ‘character’ just as architects aim to create hotels packed with personality. The human being relates to the world around him in a way he can relate to, a human way, so he may see his car as having a personality as much as he may identify with the personality of his dog.
“We humans have made some Luxury brands iconic”, Audrey argues. “We are loyal clients, we are promoters, we are lovers and believers. Some brands are way closer to us than other human beings, we trust them more. A few of them, we even consider like family, like close friends, like someone who won’t disappoint us. We use brands to dream, feel better, feel less lonely, feel driven… This is a fact, we have sacralised Luxury brands to compensate on some social pillars links that are suffering a bit today (religion, marriage, family)”.
Radiatereal.com offers to show how “the seven brand chakras” can apply in “a personal branding and business development program for heart-centred entrepreneurs” and Dr. Kunal Banerji of brandchakra.com offers “management therapy” to “explore new branding opportunities through new age brandology modules”. Even in Australia, Soulspace, Brisbane are offering Business Chakra Workshops as is Brianna Rose Branding who offers “business chakra healing” which only goes to show that Audrey could be onto something indeed.
“A brand is like a human being”, Audrey continues, “It has a name, values, history, dreams, ambitions, personality… so it behaves like a human being. In 2016, what people are looking for is being themselves, being happy and building something pure and unique and so do Brands. Instead of being focused on our image, let’s cherish our inner self: in a company it can be embodied by our brand, our products but also our collaborators and clients.”
Yogapassion.com offers an interesting diagram to illustrate the “qualities associated with the chakras (see below) in which one can see words familiar with the marketing profession such as Awareness and Communication although clearly the meanings are very different i.e. awareness of self is not the same as aiming for brand awareness amongst consumers. Yoga is very inner-directed whilst marketing tends to be outer-directed. Branding used to be a part of marketing. Today one can argue that marketing is merely a part of branding. Contemporary brands, not luxury brands alone, are expected to have a sense of purpose, a philosophy, be meaningful, and therefore project a heart and a soul.
“Yoga is a very good way to do that”, Audrey explains. “People find happiness, balance & creativity in taking care of themselves. While aligning their body with their soul and heart, we are in movement while celebrating the present moment. We are focusing on who we are, who/what makes it happen and our very own pleasure of practice via meditations, postures and chakras opening. I have applied the precepts of Yoga into luxury marketing like an everyday way of life, way of work, way of love. That became the YUXA”.
“In the book the brand will have the practice for opening the Brand chakras as described under the 7 shades of Luxury. Every practice is unique as every brand is, and those 7 shades of Luxe with their codes and meditative advice can be applied to any Luxury brand that is looking to treat herself and everyone that believes and loves it”, she adds.
In the Book, the first “shade of YUXA” is in fact the crown chakra or “tiara” that Audrey links to the ‘heritage’ of a luxury brand. Shade 2 is the third eye that Audrey links to a luxury brand’s “know-how”. Shade 3, the voice or throat chakra, she links to the brand’s “emotions”. Shade 4, the heart, she links to the “service’ aspect of the brand. Shade 5, the stomach or solar plexus, she links to the ‘exclusivity’ aspect of the brand, whilst Shade 6, the sacral chakra she associates with the ‘avante-gardiste’ or innovative trait. Finally, Shade 7 the base or root, she links to ‘prestige’. One can wonder why Prestige is not the first Shade and Heritage or Pedigree the 7th Shade?
“My points are”, she states, ”How can Luxury brands activate their role as objects of cult (that WE have make them as)? How can they empower us in a timeless and genuine way? How to make sure Luxury brands can sustain their success as well as the dreams of their believers.”
Surely there can be no harm in trying to apply the chakras to brand analysis and strategy. Should it apply to luxury brands only? Clearly luxury brands lend themselves more to this on the grounds that they are expected to be primarily handcrafted with passion, as opposed to industrial brands. Applying chakra principles could certainly help to improve the inner-brand but its hard to see how they apply to building relationships with the clients. Aspects of love are not inner-directed emotions, but are fundamentally linked to sharing. A true luxury brand generously considers its clients first as with gift-giving or offering a selfless gesture.
No doubt the yoga approach will be more attractive to brand directors who practice yoga whilst it is likely to deter those that are not yoga-orientated. If however, the trend is towards chakra-analysis, we should certainly expect to see yoga teachers evolving into brand consultants and specialized brand practitioners having to learn about yoga. I know that I won’t be one of them.
* The Ig Nobel Prizes honor achievements that first make people laugh, and then makes them think. The prizes are intended to celebrate the unusual, honor the imaginative — and spur people’s interest in science, medicine, and technology. (1) https://www.marketingscience.info/4129-2/
