Dolce & Gabbana treads carefully in Milan after China racism row

Dolce&Gabbana FW 2019 - 2020 Men's Fashion Show.

Dolce&Gabbana FW 2019/20 Men’s Fashion Show; photo: Facebook Dolce&Gabbana

Powered by article titled “Dolce & Gabbana treads carefully in Milan after China racism row” was written by Scarlett Conlon in Milan, for on Saturday 12th January 2019 18.59 UTC

Dolce & Gabbana has proved that the show does go on after the label held its autumn 2019/winter 2020 menswear collection in Milan. It was the first ready-to-wear event for the brand since it was forced to cancel a show in China after a racism and cultural appropriation storm blew up in November – it rejected the claims and apologised for any misunderstanding.

On Saturday D&G sought to control the narrative around the collection, adopting the format of classic salon show complete with a narrator explaining the ideas behind every section of the show. The theme of Elegance, meanwhile, afforded D&G the chance to try to remind the world of its original USPs.

Velvet jacquards and brocades paid tribute to the Sicilian aristocracy of the company’s birthplace; rainbow-hued sequins were reminiscent of the pyrotechnics that light up Italian festivals; and the suiting honoured Dolce’s family tailors.

The designers said that they want to show a new generation what elegance is, and will be hoping that the debacle in China won’t alienate the lucrative millennial market in the region, where consumers are responsible for nearly a third of the annual luxury spend.

Dolce & Gabbana model at Milan Menswear Fashion Week AW19/20.
Dolce & Gabbana model at Milan Menswear Fashion Week AW19/20. Photograph: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images

Backstage, Steffano Gabbana – considered by some to have been the main provocateur of the China show – said that he would like to “turn the page” and teach the new generation about timeless elegance. “I don’t know if it’s wrong or good but this is our point of view … fashion is the mirror of the times [reflecting] what is outside – sometimes we get it right, sometimes not.” © Guardian News & Media Limited 2010

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