Chanel, Dior and Naomi Campbell: highlights from haute couture – photo essay

Armani Prive 2017 couture show


Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Chanel, Dior and Naomi Campbell: highlights from haute couture – photo essay” was written by Guardian fashion, for theguardian.com on Thursday 6th July 2017 16.59 UTC

A to-scale Eiffle tower and tweed at Chanel. Naomi Campbell (above) on the Azzedine Alaïa catwalk. Gowns and giant Frank Sidebottom-sized heads at Viktor + Rolf. An Amelia Earhart-inspired jumpsuit at Dior – and Celine Dion, on the front row. The autumn/winter 2017 haute couture shows were more than just taffeta and gowns. Super-accessories, silhouettes and Bella Hadid were among the many talking points from the shows in Paris. Here are our highlights.

The Chanel bridal gown – the finale piece.
The Chanel bridal gown. Photograph: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
  • Chanel traditionally closes its couture show with a bridal gown.

Artist Sonia Delaunay, a key figure within the Parisian avant-garde, was one of the main inspirations behind the finishing touches at Chanel, which included circular ruffles and clashing colours.

Model Sanne de Roo in fuschia prints on the Giorgio Armani Prive catwalk.
Model Sanne de Roo in fuschia prints on the Giorgio Armani Prive catwalk. Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images

Giorgio Armani

Oversized prints, gaudy colours and baroque were on the Armani Prive moodboard, which mixed trousers with capes alongside full-length column gowns.

Small, beanie-style berets with discreet, black veils finished off the evening looks.

Naomi Watts, Sophia Loren, Roberta Armani and Kate Winslet on the front row at Armani.
Naomi Watts, Sophia Loren, Roberta Armani and Kate Winslet on the front row at Armani. Photograph: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images
  • Naomi Watts, Sophia Loren, Roberta Armani and Kate Winslet on the front row at Armani. The show was dedicated his show to the late Franca Sozzani, the iconoclastic editor of Italian Vogue.
Models walk the runway during the Christian Dior Haute Couture
Models on the Christian Dior couture catwalk. Photograph: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images

Travel at Dior

Dior turns 70 this year. Maria Grazia Chiuri designed her collection, which featured Dior’s archival silhouette – small bodies paired with a voluminous skirt – in homage to Christian Dior himself.

A model in full length stripes at Dior.
A model in full-length stripes at Dior. Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images
The Amelia Earhart-inspired jumpsuit, at Dior.
An Amelia Earhart-inspired jumpsuit at Dior. Photograph: Julien de Rosa/EPA
  • Jennifer Lawrence, Robert Pattinson and Natalie Portman were among the celebrities at the Dior show. There were full skirts, long-line coats and an Amelia Earhart-inspired jumpsuit on the catwalk.
Jennifer Lawrence, Robert Pattinson and Natalie Portman at the Dior show.
Jennifer Lawrence, Robert Pattinson and Natalie Portman at the Dior show. Photograph: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images
  • In place of last season’s rocket, Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to the parks of Paris and, of course, the Eiffel Tower.
Overview of the Chanel couture menagerie.
Overview of the Chanel couture menagerie. Photograph: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images

La tour Eiffel at Chanel

The Chanel couture show is the standout collection of Couture week – and has its starriest front row. Guests included Katy Perry, Cara Delevingne, Tilda Swinton, Kristen Stewart, Claudia Schiffer an Julianne Moore.

Singer Katy Perry and model Cara DeLevigne before the show.
Singer Katy Perry and model Cara DeLevigne before the show. Photograph: Thibault Camus/AP
  • Tweed suits were adorned with crystals, or sprouted multicoloured feathered rosettes at the arms and hems.
Models walk the runway during Miu Miu Cruise Collection
Models walk the runway during Miu Miu Cruise Collection. Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty Images for Miu Miu

Miu Miu Cruise

The Miu Miu Cruise show took place during Couture fashion week, hosted in the Paris Automobile Club. Jumpsuits, orange knitwear and bumbags were the talk of the collection, which was lively, sporty and markedly more street-focused than normal.

Jourdan Dunn, Kendall Jenner and bumbags at Miu Miu’s Cruise collection
Jourdan Dunn, Kendall Jenner and bumbags at Miu Miu’s Cruise collection. Photograph: SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend played as models showcased silk blouses with crystal shoulders.
Rodarte show, Runway, Fall Winter 2017
The Rodarte show. Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

Flowers at Rodarte

Kate and Laura Mulleavy presented their spring 2018 Rodarte collection, the first since the sisters moved to Paris Couture week from New York. The show, a floral, gauzy affair, took place in Paris’s Cloître Port Royal gardens.

A model in monochrome on the Rodarte catwalk.
A model in monochrome on the Rodarte catwalk. Photograph: SIPA/REX/Shutterstock
Black lace and flower crowns on the Rodarte catwalk.
Black lace and flower crowns on the Rodarte catwalk. Photograph: SIPA/REX/Shutterstock
  • Flowers, polka dots, pink and monochrome – the Rodarte show was a gothic twist on prettiness.
Power yellow on the Giambattista Valli catwalk.
Power yellow on the Giambattista Valli catwalk. Photograph: Kristy Sparow/Getty Images

Giambattista Valli

Florals and tulle were the main takeaway from the Giambattisra Valli show. Think oversized ballet-style gowns, silk chiffon dresses, Dovima-esque powder puff skirts – and Celine Dion dancing on the front row.

A moderl in tulle on the Giambattista Valli catwalk.
A moderl in tulle on the Giambattista Valli catwalk. Photograph: Kristy Sparow/Getty Images

A mosaic floor at the Petit Palais and theme heavy on spring, sunshine and flowers. This was Paris in springtime, Giambattista Valli-style.

Celine Dion applauds the Giambattista Valli show.
Celine Dion applauds the Giambattista Valli show. Photograph: Footwear News/REX/Shutterstock
  • Vogue’s Hamish Bowles, Anna Wintour and Suzi Menkes Instagrammed Dion, who has become something of a style runaway.
Models on the Maison Margiela couture catwalk.
Models on the Maison Margiela couture catwalk. Photograph: Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images

Maison Margiela

For the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection, models wore gold cowboy boots, repurposed trench coats and – it seems – foam on their heads.

Bella Hadid for Margiela
Bella Hadid on the Maison Margiela catwalk. Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
Model Lidia Judickaite in pleated trenchat Margiela.
Model Lidia Judickaite in pleated trenchat Margiela. Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
Bella Hadid for Alexandre Vauthier
Bella Hadid for Alexandre Vauthier. Photograph: Julien de Rosa/EPA

Alexandre Vauthier

  • Bella Hadid opened the Alexandre Vauthier show and Kendall Jenner closed it.

Sheer polonecks, chainmail-effect wrap dresses and a curious lighting arrangement. Vauthier’s show was a lesson in millennial glamour inspired by Studio 54.

Feathered boots on the Alexandre Vauthier catwalk.
Feathered boots on the Alexandre Vauthier catwalk. Photograph: SIPA/REX/Shutterstock
Lace detailed boots
Lace detailed boots. Photograph: Kristy Sparow/Getty Images
Pink metallic leather boots
Pink metallic leather boots. Photograph: Chesnot/Getty Images
Gold leather boots
Gold leather boots. Photograph: Chesnot/Getty Images
  • Calf-high cowboy boots in metallic tones were a theme of the couture shows.
Models backstage at Schiaparelli
Models backstage at Schiaparelli. Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

Schiaparelli

This collection was an homage to strong women: the writer Anaïs Nin, the photographer Lee Miller, the heiress and political activist Nancy Cunard were all namechecked by the Italian fashion house.

Cape and sheer gloves at Schiaparelli
Najiyah Imani wears cape and sheer gloves at Schiaparelli. Photograph: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images
Leonie Pleuse in a belted chiffon gown at Schiaparelli.
Leonie Pleuse in a belted chiffon gown at Schiaparelli. Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
  • Elsa Schiaparelli was famously rivals with Coco Chanel, and was inspired by the surreal artists within her peer group.
Models line up on the Valentino catwalk.
Models line up on the Valentino catwalk. Photograph: Etienne Laurent/EPA

Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s designs featured hooded capes, robes and gowns which were both modest and feminine – think pink, lilac and cream – and almost pious in their silhouette.

Metal bags in the shape of skulls at Valentino.
Metal bags in the shape of skulls at Valentino. Photograph: Rex Features
  • Hammered metal bags were the accessory of the week, as seen at Valentino.
A full-length ruffled gown at Valentino.
A full-length ruffled gown at Valentino. Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
A model in dvoree velvet at Valentino.
A model in dvoree velvet at Valentino. Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
A model on the Viktor & Rolf couture catwalk.
A model on the Viktor & Rolf couture catwalk. Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images

Viktor + Rolf

Modified MA-1 bomber jackets with orange lining, jeans, Doc Martens and twenty of the forty models wearing giant Frank Sidebottom-inspired heads at Viktor + Rolf in what was the most idiosyncratic styling move of couture week.

A model walks the runway during the Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture show
A model walks the runway during the Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture show Photograph: Peter White/Getty Images

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