The autumn/winter 2018 menswear shows have wrapped. From the shade of the season to the print to know, here are the trends to note.
- Dior Homme show, Paris.
Time was when brown meant drab. For shame. At Kim Jones’s final show for Louis Vuitton, beige, taupe and chocolate became the key shades for the wild west-themed parts of his show. Meanwhile, Marni rolled out patterned suits that were evocatively 1970s. As per, in Paris – and Milan and London – it was the shade du jour of accessories, from Armani’s bags to Craig Green’s bum bags. At Ermenegildo Zegna, rich chocolate hued suits even matched the accessories.
- Models backstage in taupe and beige suede at the Louis Vuitton show, Paris. Below, darker, grown-up shades dominated Ermenegildo Zegna and Marni in Milan.
- It was a return to trad with chocolate brown bags at Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani.
Jumpers remain the most evocative piece of autumn kit, from jumpers as goalposts to luxe cashmere knits to pops of colour, the autumn catwalks were awash with them. Mr Blobby was the theme at Liam Hodges, a colour pairing which works surprisingly well on humans. Sporty V’s and ski-themed prints were another overarching theme, most visible at AMI and Hermès in Paris. Elsewhere, it was all about texture with Lou Dalton making a case for bobbly knits.
- Backstage prior the AMI – Alexandre Mattiussi show in Paris. Below: Acne studios and Liam Hodges.
- Bobbly at Lou Dalton or Blobby at Liam hodges, it’s your call with this autumn’s knitwear.
Make sure your jackets come with the requisite amount of squishiness next season – quilting dominated outerwear for AW18. There were classic padded jackets worthy of a rave at Versace and GMBH, while MSGM and Marni had a vintage feel – MSGM’s even had theirs worn with cords and a Fair Isle sweater. For the real newness, look to Prada, where there were layered quilted jackets with the sharp lines of a square. Playmobil chic is now a thing.
- Blue jacket and bag at Prada, quilted jacket at Marni.
- Padded jackets at GmbH. Below, fluoro orange at Versace and cropped schoolboy chic at MSGM.
Leather and belted coats
If the trench is currently ruling womenswear, the menswear shows for AW18 borrowed its silhouette and – specifically – its belt. Belted coats were seen at Missoni and Issey Miyake. One of the best was a nubbly brown number at menswear insider favourite Lemaire. In other coat news, leather is back – but wear these styles open. Prada and Beluti managed to make a knee-length leather coat seem almost effortless, rather than a strong statement.
- Backstage at Missoni, on the runway at Prada.
- Issey Miyake and Lemaire.
Once resigned to Savile Row suits and city attire, pinstripes emerged as a preeminent theme for autumn/winter 2018, but not as we know them. Alexander McQueen, John Lawrence Sullivan and Alex Mullins all revisited the sartorial stalwart with varying degrees of slouch rather that stiffness, while at Off/White, Virgil Abloh captured the transition stage between formal and laissez-faire, with pinstripes in his collection coined “Business Casual”.
- Suit with waist-tied mac at Alexander McQueen, and trousers at Off/White’s ‘Business Casual’ presentation, Paris.
- Pinstripe at John Lawrence Sullivan, and Alex Mullins London.
Checks are officially a thing, but there is nothing safe about them this season: they’re bold, they’re bright and they’re worn head to toe. Tartan, windowpane, Madras, Prince of Wales, tattersall and plaid patterns all popped up, varying from low-key tones at Thom Browne, Kenzo, Sacai and E Tautz to standout shades at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Versace. Heritage just got haute.
- Model on the catwalk Thom Browne show. Below: Check overcoat at E. Tautz at Sacai, red check at Sacai.
- Model on the catwalk in the snow for Thom Browne. Below; overcoat at E Tautz, runway look at Sacai.
- Tartan at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, and Versace.
- Backstage at Juun.J, Dries Van Noten catwalk
- Checks at Kenzo
guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2010