Autumn/ winter 2018: the key menswear trends

 

ermenegildo zegna fall winter 2018 catwalk

Ermenegildo Zegna Fall Winter 2018

 


Powered by Guardian.co.ukThis article titled “Autumn/ winter 2018: the key menswear trends” was written by Helen Seamons, for theguardian.com on Tuesday 23rd January 2018 12.58 UTC

The autumn/winter 2018 menswear shows have wrapped. From the shade of the season to the print to know, here are the trends to note.

Model on the catwalk during the Dior Homme show, Paris
Model on the catwalk during the Dior Homme show, Paris Photograph: Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock
  • Dior Homme show, Paris.
Models walk the runway during the finale of the Dior Homme menswear show in Paris.
Models walk the runway during the finale of the Dior Homme menswear show in Paris. Photograph: Getty

Brown

Time was when brown meant drab. For shame. At Kim Jones’s final show for Louis Vuitton, beige, taupe and chocolate became the key shades for the wild west-themed parts of his show. Meanwhile, Marni rolled out patterned suits that were evocatively 1970s. As per, in Paris – and Milan and London – it was the shade du jour of accessories, from Armani’s bags to Craig Green’s bum bags. At Ermenegildo Zegna, rich chocolate hued suits even matched the accessories.

Models backstage at the Louis Vuitton show, Paris.
Models backstage at the Louis Vuitton show, Paris. Photograph: Rex/Shutterstock
  • Models backstage in taupe and beige suede at the Louis Vuitton show, Paris. Below, darker, grown-up shades dominated Ermenegildo Zegna and Marni in Milan.
Time for taupe at the Ermenegildo Zegna show.
Time for taupe at the Ermenegildo Zegna show. Photograph: Rex/Shutterstock
Look 9 at Marni
Utilitarian brown suits with an embroidered twist at Marni.
Bag detail at the Ermenegildo Zegna.
Feeling bookish? Bag detail at the Ermenegildo Zegna. Photograph: Getty
Bag detail from Giorgio Armani, Milan
Hand-held office bags at the Giorgio Armani show in Milan. Photograph: SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
  • It was a return to trad with chocolate brown bags at Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani.
A model walks the runway at the Fendi show in Milan.
A model walks the runway at the Fendi show in Milan. Photograph: Getty

Statement jumpers

Jumpers remain the most evocative piece of autumn kit, from jumpers as goalposts to luxe cashmere knits to pops of colour, the autumn catwalks were awash with them. Mr Blobby was the theme at Liam Hodges, a colour pairing which works surprisingly well on humans. Sporty V’s and ski-themed prints were another overarching theme, most visible at AMI and Hermès in Paris. Elsewhere, it was all about texture with Lou Dalton making a case for bobbly knits.

Models pose backstage prior the AMI - Alexandre Mattiussi show in Paris
Deep V’s backstage before the AMI Alexandre Mattiussi show in Paris. Photograph: Getty
  • Backstage prior the AMI – Alexandre Mattiussi show in Paris. Below: Acne studios and Liam Hodges.
Semi-sheer shell-shaped knits on the Acne Studios catwalk.
Semi-sheer shell-shaped knits on the Acne Studios catwalk. Photograph: Acne
Liam Hodges
Mr Blobby at Liam Hodges. Photograph: Liam Hodges
Hermès backstage
Ski-themed sweaters backstage at Hermès.
Lou Dalton
Purple bobbles in a slightly oversized fit at Lou Dalton.
  • Bobbly at Lou Dalton or Blobby at Liam hodges, it’s your call with this autumn’s knitwear.
A model walks the runway during the Vetements show in Saint-Ouen, Paris
A model walks the runway during the Vetements show in Saint-Ouen, Paris. Photograph: Getty

Quilted

Make sure your jackets come with the requisite amount of squishiness next season – quilting dominated outerwear for AW18. There were classic padded jackets worthy of a rave at Versace and GMBH, while MSGM and Marni had a vintage feel – MSGM’s even had theirs worn with cords and a Fair Isle sweater. For the real newness, look to Prada, where there were layered quilted jackets with the sharp lines of a square. Playmobil chic is now a thing.

Blue quilted jacket and bag at Prada.
Blue quilted jacket and bag at Prada. Photograph: Rex/Shutterstock
Quilted jacket at Marni
Quilted jacket at Marni.
  • Blue jacket and bag at Prada, quilted jacket at Marni.
Models present creations by GMBH, during the men’s Fashion Week
Models present creations by GmbH, during the men’s fashion week. Photograph: AFP/Getty
  • Padded jackets at GmbH. Below, fluoro orange at Versace and cropped schoolboy chic at MSGM.
Versace Men fw18.
Versace Men fw18.
MSGM.
MSGM. Photograph: Alessandro Garofalo
Berluti Ready to Wear collection by French designer Haider Ackermann for Berluti in Paris
Berluti Ready to Wear collection by French designer Haider Ackermann for Berluti in Paris. Photograph: Caroline Blumberg/EPA

Leather and belted coats

If the trench is currently ruling womenswear, the menswear shows for AW18 borrowed its silhouette and – specifically – its belt. Belted coats were seen at Missoni and Issey Miyake. One of the best was a nubbly brown number at menswear insider favourite Lemaire. In other coat news, leather is back – but wear these styles open. Prada and Beluti managed to make a knee-length leather coat seem almost effortless, rather than a strong statement.

Backstage at Missoni
Backstage at Missoni.
Prada in Milan.
Prada in Milan. Photograph: EPA
  • Backstage at Missoni, on the runway at Prada.
Issey Miyake.
Issey Miyake. Photograph: Issey Miyake
Model on the catwalk Lemaire show.
Model on the catwalk Lemaire show. Photograph: SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Issey Miyake and Lemaire.
Maison Margiela show in Paris.
Maison Margiela show in Paris. Photograph: EPA

Pinstripes

Once resigned to Savile Row suits and city attire, pinstripes emerged as a preeminent theme for autumn/winter 2018, but not as we know them. Alexander McQueen, John Lawrence Sullivan and Alex Mullins all revisited the sartorial stalwart with varying degrees of slouch rather that stiffness, while at Off/White, Virgil Abloh captured the transition stage between formal and laissez-faire, with pinstripes in his collection coined “Business Casual”.

Alexander McQueen
Pinstripe suit with waist-tied mac at Alexander McQueen, Paris Photograph: AMQ
Pinstripe trousers at Off/White’s ‘Business Casual’ presentation, Paris.
Pinstripe trousers at Off/White’s ‘Business Casual’ presentation, Paris. Photograph: Getty
  • Suit with waist-tied mac at Alexander McQueen, and trousers at Off/White’s ‘Business Casual’ presentation, Paris.
John Lawrence Sullivan, London
John Lawrence Sullivan, London Photograph: Nicholas Andrews
Alex Mullins, London
Alex Mullins, London Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
  • Pinstripe at John Lawrence Sullivan, and Alex Mullins London.
Models on the catwalk Sacai show in Paris.
Models on the catwalk Sacai show in Paris. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

Checks

Checks are officially a thing, but there is nothing safe about them this season: they’re bold, they’re bright and they’re worn head to toe. Tartan, windowpane, Madras, Prince of Wales, tattersall and plaid patterns all popped up, varying from low-key tones at Thom Browne, Kenzo, Sacai and E Tautz to standout shades at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Versace. Heritage just got haute.

  • Model on the catwalk Thom Browne show. Below: Check overcoat at E. Tautz at Sacai, red check at Sacai.
Model on the catwalk Thom Browne show.
Model on the catwalk Thom Browne show. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock
  • Model on the catwalk in the snow for Thom Browne. Below; overcoat at E Tautz, runway look at Sacai.
Check overcoat at E Tautz.
Check overcoat at E Tautz.
A model walks the runway during the Sacai Menswear show, Paris.
A model walks the runway during the Sacai Menswear show, Paris. Photograph: Getty
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. Photograph: Chris Yates
Versace
Versace Photograph: Estrop/Versace
  • Tartan at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, and Versace.
Juun J show.
Juun J show. Photograph: Rex/Shutterstock
Dries Van Noten show .
Dries Van Noten show . Photograph: Rex/Shutterstock
  • Backstage at Juun.J, Dries Van Noten catwalk
Kenzo show, Backstage, AW18
Kenzo show, Backstage, AW18 Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
  • Checks at Kenzo

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