For 21 years, in January, all the those interested in the refined and intricate world of luxury watches turn their sights toward Geneva, the host for SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2011 – the private luxury watch fair). Between 17 and 21 January 2011 SIHH was the arena for 19 exclusive watch brands. Selective invitation policy was even more strict. This fact ensured the presence of an exclusive clientele of retailers who are the ambassadors for Fine Watchmaking worldwide, together with the most respected international journalists.
The private trade fair hosted also an outstanding exhibition of “Treasures from the Beyer Clock and Watch Museum in Zurich.” The Beyer Clock and Watch Museum in Zurich showed some eighty of the most significant pieces from its collection, in an exhibition that traces the history of time measurement from the sundial to the twentieth-century wristwatch.
This SIHH 2011 opened in a far more favourable climate. After weathering the storm blown up by global economic crisis, Swiss watchmaking is experiencing an upturn in activity that bodes well for the fair. This SIHH should therefore live up to its reputation as a foremost private trade fair for Fine Watchmaking, and at the same time confirm the recovery observed over recent months.
In parallel with SIHH 2011 the independent watch manufacturers have met for the second time at Geneva Time Exhibition (from 16 to 21 January 2011). The Geneva Time Exhibition Superwatch Award – GTE 2011 jury unanimously voted Frédéric Jouvenot’s Helios as the most accomplished independent watch in terms of design, avant-garde nature and technique.
Take a look at the SIHH 2011 watches:
Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” watch
The fourth A. Lange & Söhne timepiece honoured with the distinction “Pour le Mérite” embodies a fusée-and-chain transmission as well as a tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism. The underlying purpose shared by both of these grand complications is to improve rate stability and precision. The prominent regulator dial with its fascinating pivoting segment was inspired by a famous historic paragon.
Audemars Piguet Self-Winding Millenary watch
Drawing upon the impressive range of expertise built up by Audemars Piguet, this new Millenary watch is enriching a classic yet architectural line that already includes such exceptional models as the Tradition d’Excellence N°5, MC 12, Deadbeat Seconds, MC One, and the more recent Minute Repeater.
The generous volume provided by the oval shape of its case serves to magnify the three-dimensional movement construction that thereby perpetuates the family likeness established by its predecessors. Nonetheless, above and beyond the initial impression of technical beauty and sophistication, this watch naturally sparks curiosity.
The watchmakers of Le Brassus have achieved the feat of actually bringing a movement to the wrist, rather than just a watch in the conventional sense. There is indeed no need to turn the watch over to admire its interior through the sapphire crystal, since the new Calibre 4101 has been literally “turned upside down” to reveal its inner workings through the front of the watch.
Baume & Mercier Capeland watch
2011, a new chapter for Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier’s story begins all the way back in 1830 and reads like a true saga. The dawn of 2011 means the opening of a new chapter for Baume & Mercier, a brand which considers itself a privileged partner for all of life’s precious moments.
In an era of changing values, a Baume & Mercier watch is also a memorykeeper, an everlasting reminder of life’s most cherished moments : weddings, births, anniversaries, graduations, family reunions.
Today, the Baume & Mercier universe is flawlessly represented by seaside living, a way of life which perfectly corresponds to the genuine values of conviviality, sharing, and durability which are promoted by the brand.
Long Island’s The Hamptons are the ideal reflection of this vision. Between earth and sea, the art of living and personal luxury, this magical place has inspired the wisdom expressed in Baume & Mercier’s new dictum : Life is about moments.
In this spirit, Baume & Mercier is proud to present, as a part of its two new collections, the Capeland watch: a contemporary interpretation of one of the Maison d’Horlogerie’s most historic timepieces.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur watch
THE ASTRORÉGULATEUR MOVEMENT DEFIES THE FORCE OF GRAVITY
For the 21st edition of the SIHH, Cartier fine watchmaking defies the future with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur watch fitted with the 9800 MC calibre. This revolutionary movement counteracts the effects of gravity on timing accuracy in vertical positions, thanks to the unusual positioning of the balance and seconds hand on a micro-rotor located on the dial side.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur watch, calibre 9800 MC :
Case in niobium-titanium
− Diameter : 50 mm – Circular-grained crown in titanium adorned with a sapphire cabochon − Sapphire crystal
− Sapphire crystal case back
− Water resistance : 30 metres
− Black alligator-skin strap
− Double adjustable folding clasp in18 carat white gold
− Limited series of 50 individually numbered timepieces released worldwide / Calibre 9800 MC, Astrorégulateur : Manufacture mechanical self-winding movement
− Diameter : 15 ¾ lines, (35.8 mm)
−Thickness : 10.1 mm
− Number of jewels : 43
– Number of parts : 281
– Balance: 21,600 vibrations / hour
– Power reserve : approx. 80 hours
– Individually numbered movement.
JeanRichard Diverscope Titanium watch
Designed to withstand extreme conditions, JEANRICHARD’s Diverscope Titanium pairs a titanium case offering water resistance to 300 metres with one of the Manufacture’s own self-winding movements. The titanium of the case is treated to produce a matt structure and a dark tone, revealing its finest attributes. Its warm colour complements the dial and fabric wristlet, resulting in a truly harmonious model. Aesthetically striking, this reliable, high-performance watch is the perfect accessory for discoveries both on land and in the depths of the ocean.
A perfect blend of functionality and aesthetic allure, the Diverscope is driven by a mechanical self-winding movement produced in the Brand’s own workshops : the JR1000, a development that embodies the Brand’s desire to impose its watchmaking creativity and technical independence.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time watch
Vacheron Constantin presents the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time, a mechanical self-winding watch able to indicate the world’s 37 time-zones – including offset by a half-hour or quarter-hour difference – thanks to its new Calibre 2460 WT, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, and bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. This complication (patent pending) that is particularly practical and useful for great travellers enables simultaneous indication of all the “hours of the world”. Switching from one time-zone to another is smoothly and easily accomplished using the crown. The 42.50 mm-diameter case is crafted in 18K 5N pink gold.
Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Anniversary Edition watch
1821- 2011: Montblanc Celebrates the Invention of the Chronograph. 2011 will be a special year for the chronograph, which celebrates its 190th birthday. The upcoming anniversary also makes 2011 an important year for Montblanc. After all, could any other type of watch than the chronograph be nearer and dearer to the heart of Montblanc, a brand which not only epitomizes the art of high-quality Swiss watchmaking, but is also the world’s best-known manufacturer of fine writing instruments? Chronos means “time” and graphein means “to write”. Originally a “time-writing” device, the first chronograph was unveiled by its inventor, Nicolas Rieussec, in 1821.
Montblanc first paid homage to the inventor of the device for measuring brief intervals of time by dedicating its innovative Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph to the ingenious watchmaker in 2008.
For the 190th anniversary in 2011, the watch Manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking centre of Le Locle now launches the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Anniversary Edition, which will be available in a strictly limited edition of 190 watches in 18K red gold, 90 watches in 18K white gold and 25 watches in 950 platinum.
Officine Panerai Luminor Composite Marina 1950 3 Days – 44 mm. watch
The P.9000 manufacture automatic movement has a three day power reserve. The Luminor 1950 case created in Panerai Composite matt brown in colour and extremely distinctive in appearance, large unadorned dial with a sandwich construction. These are the key elements which define the Luminor Composite Marina 1950 3 Days – 44 mm, a perfect mix of tradition and innovation which every Panerai watch represents. The case and buckle are executed in Panerai Composite, a synthetic ceramic created by an electro-mechanical process involving the transformation of aluminium and used in haute horlogerie for the first time by Officine Panerai thanks to its extreme hardness, resistance and lightness.
Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport watch – the fastest watch in the world
In 2004, Parmigiani revolutionised the world of watchmaking by placing the entire movement of its Bugatti Type 370 watch on a transverse axis, just like a car engine block. In 2010, Parmigiani paid homage to the newest of Bugatti’s super-speed cars, the Veyron 16.4 Super Sport, now recognised as the fastest sports car in the world, by reinterpreting its Bugatti watch model. Parmigiani flipped all the mechanical components of the new calibre Bugatti PF 372, placing them along a vertical axis, retaining the lateral time display so appreciated by car drivers. An exclusive feature, Parmigiani has successfully developed a 90° time setting system – the dial is positioned perpendicular to the display axis (hours/minutes) – by integrating a system of double pinions with bevel gearing.
Like the complete movement, this unique and complex mechanical system, which allows the time to be displayed on the side, has been entirely designed and created in the workshops of the Fleurier manufacture (VMF).
Piaget Ultra-Thin Automatic Tourbillon watch
Piaget launches it first Ultra-Thin Automatic Tourbillon watch.
Drawing upon the qualities of Piaget Calibre 600P – the world’s thinnest handwound
shaped movement – as well as those of Piaget Calibre 1208P – the world’s thinnest self-winding movement equipped with a micro-rotor – Calibre 1270P is Piaget’s first ever self-winding ultra-thin tourbillon movement. The Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic housing this cushion-shaped movement holds the world record for slenderness of any watch currently on the market, since its case measures a mere 10.4 mm thick. This exceptional timepiece offers a dial-side view of the off-centred gold micro-rotor entwined with the equally offset tourbillon carriage, while the laser-engraved sapphire crystal also reveals the most fascinating mechanical components, from the self-winding mechanism to the hand-fitting.
Ralph Lauren Sporting Watch with wood dial
Ralph Lauren has long looked to automobiles as a source of inspiration for his designs. For 2011, Ralph Lauren presents the first timepiece inspired by his personal car collection, with the introduction of a Ralph Lauren Sporting watch featuring a wood dial. Combining his passion for fine automobiles
with his passion for fine watches, Ralph Lauren unveils this new timepiece design recalling the refined interior of his model 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe.
This new watch features a stainless steel case with a unique dial in rich loupe d’orme or elm burl–in honor of the car’s iconic wooden dashboard and trim detail. Prized for its highly figured patterns and rarity, elm burl wood has been traditionally used by artists and sculptors and is often found in the consoles of luxury cars. The warmth of the wood is contrasted by the dial’s matte black galvanic center and by the black calf strap, reminiscent of the distinct juxtaposition of the wooden dashboard and black leather seating in Ralp Lauren’s prized vintage automobile.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second watch
A heritage of tradition – Carrying the legacy of Girard-Perregaux’s clean, refined style, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection embodies the Brand’s all-encompassing expertise in creating great watchmaking classics. The latest creation in this line, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second model, with a design of the utmost purity, bears the distinctive hallmarks of a refined timepiece right down to the smallest details.
For a contemporary homage to this secular tradition, it quickly became clear that enamel was the only choice for the dial. The properties of enamel and its special component make the dial it adorns resistant, lending it depth and a unique character. This model beats in time to a new automatic movement, developed from the Girard-Perregaux calibre 3300.
Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 2 watch
In ten years, no less than six significant inventions have sprung from Greubel Forsey’s EWT think tank, three of which (to date) have been celebrated by Invention Piece (IP). In 2007, IP1 paid homage to the Double Tourbillon 30°; in 2009, IP3 honoured the Tourbillon 24 Secondes; and today IP2 pays tribute to the Quadruple Tourbillon with a completely new architecture in which the focus is on its exclusive mechanism. The two double tourbillons systems are presented head to tail and coupled by a spherical differential. A sub-dial at 5 o’clock conceals triple mainspring barrels and features a red triangle indicating hours and a rotating disk indicates minutes. Small seconds dial at 10 o’clock and 56-hour power reserve indicator at 11 o’clock complete the dial. A unique edition of 11 pieces in platinum and 11 in red gold.
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days watch
Elegant and refined – Portofino Hand -Wound Eight Days
The Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days seamlessly takes up a tradition established by this watch family that goes back over 25 years. When the first Portofino watch took the world by storm in 1984, it was a scintillating combination of understated elegance and precision mechanics. The watch was, and still is, a perfect piece for connoisseurs. This is particularly true of the Portofino family’s new flagship, which will also appeal to devotees of complex yet highly functional watchmaking. For ticking away inside the elegant, round case is the new IWC-manufactured 59210 calibre: designed and built using state-of-the-art methods, it never loses sight of Schaffhausen’s great watchmaking tradition. The new IWC Portofino collection and its flagship model combine the Italian lifestyle and elegant chic of the 1950s and 60s with modern engineering excellence and precision watch manufacturing.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch – “The Reverso watch, a legend in movement”
The Reverso watch was patented in March 1931. Eighty years later, the Reverso has risen from being a watchmaking icon to that of a cult, where each owner has the possibility of personalizing his or her watch, making it unique.
In 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre will once more surprise and amaze Reverso affficionados with the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin, Grande Reverso Duoface, Reverso Répétition Minutes à rideau and Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin; four brand-new watches that cultivate the roots of this legendary watch, while totally rethinking its technical and esthetic characteristics.
There have never been as many ways to personalize the Reverso as there are in 2011, the watch’s 80th anniversary. The reversible case can be decorated with initials, a name, a word, numbers, symbols, a drawing, a portrait or any other design, from the simplest to the most complicated: today, anything is
possible thanks to the expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artists. Never before has Jaeger-LeCoultre desired so strongly to offer Reverso owners a place in the history of the watch and of the brand.
In customizing their Reverso, each owner adds a line to the legend. And now, all those wishing to do so, can share their inspiration with other Reverso lovers through a virtual museum on the Jaeger-LeCoultre website: www.Jaeger-lecoultre.com
Roger Dubuis The Chronograph La Monegasque watch
The chronograph version of La Monégasque, the trump card in the new ROGER DUBUIS collection, certainly holds a winning hand of special features.
It impresses with its refined design and fascinating mechanical movement. Its sunburst satin-brushed dial displays a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small-seconds counter at 9 o’clock, both of which reflect the style and charm of grand tradition chronographs. Its elegant pink-gold case is enhanced with a decorative bezel in black PVD titanium.
Water-resistant to 5 bar (50 metres), its 44 millimetres case houses a new column-wheel chronograph movement designed, developed and made by Manufacture ROGER DUBUIS. This self-winding mechanical chronograph movement by micro-rotor – RD680 calibre – comprises a total of 264 parts.
Like all ROGER DUBUIS movements, it will be stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal. La Monégasque Chronograph comes with a black, hand-sewn, alligator-skin strap with a pink-gold pin buckle.
Richard Mille RM 017 Extra Flat Tourbillon watch
The RM 017 Tourbillon represents a new technical achievement, characterised by a movement baseplate made of titanium, with black PVD coating ; a function indicator specific to Richard Mille, and a safety system with blocking mechanism on the barrel. This new process avoids the spring being overloaded during rewinding. It eliminates the risk of knocking the escapement and prevents the watch from running too fast.
These innovations in the RM 017 are concentrated in an extra-flat case of 8.7 mm, which places this watch in an exclusive group of the world’s slimmest tourbillon watches. The RM 017, while displaying cutting-edge technology, is also extremely comfortable to wear, thanks to its curved shape, which fits snugly on the wrist.
Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Complication Five Weeks in a Balloon watch
At SIHH 2011, Van Cleef & Arpels presents a new model, the Poetic Complication® Five Weeks in a Balloon, inspired by the Jules Verne novel, Les Voyages Extraordinaires. The dial, decorated with champlevé enamel and inlaid with mother-of-pearl, depicts a hot air ballon rising into the air of Zanzibar.
The hours and minutes are indicated by the retograde movement of the balloon’s anchor and a bird in flight. Conceived by the vibrant imagination of Van Cleef & Arpels, the Poetic Complication watches reveal an original approach to High Watchmaking. Merging the rigour required in complicated movements with the creative virtuosity of the Maison’s craftsmen brings an intimate extra dimension to these precious watches – time that beats to the pulse of happiness and emotion.
White gold case / Dial : chamlevé enamel and mother-of-pearl / Engraving on the caseback / Alligator strap / White gold buckle / Mechanical movement, Retrograde Hours and Minutes / Numbered edition.